Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey gents,
 
So I've been chasing blood (oil) loss from my rb25det NEO....
 
Basically it's soaking the inside of the timing cover and dripping down the front of the oil pump and sump etc,
 
Now, many hours have been spent attacking the usual culprits for this nonsense: genuine valve covers, half moons, cam seals and front main seal have all been replaced with genuine gasket goo to help. I also re torqued the head studs while the covers were off.
 
To my displeasure I pulled the timing covers off again today and she's still bleeding. I fear it can only be coming from the head gasket seal (or lack there of)...
 
The head was recently (6 months or so ago) reconditioned and ARP head studs, Tomei metal (standard thickness) Head gasket and tomei poncams went back in with it (would have been rude not to...)
 
The place I took it to obviously made it clear they needed to get the deck of the block as smooth as a babies ass in order to seal it with a metal head gasket... I'm thinking perhaps she wasn't smooth enough... But it's certainly not leaking compression so I'm scratching my head a bit cause there's not much room between the front of the block and cylinder #1... surely if it's leaking oil that far foward it would leak compression aswell?
 
I'm uploading pics of where the oil is pooling on top of the water pump for your viewing pleasure.
 
Anyway I guess I'm at the point where I'm trying to work out:
 
A: Are there ANY other spots on the front of a turbo NEO where oil could get into the timing cover ( VCT maybe?) That people know of?
 
B: If it does turn out to be the head gasket, could I just one-for-one it with a genuine HG without getting the head sent to a shop (Again) cause its still newishly refurb'd or is that bad joojoo? (Also not pushing much boost or power... I was just future proofing it)
 
C: Bite the bullet and start looking for/ organising a rebuilt long motor since effort is required either way
 
D: Attempt to convince the shop I took it into that they should really help me out..
(I don't like my chances here because all other seals weren't installed by a 'qualified mechanic', so f$#@ery could ensure)
 
There's tons of experience and genuine dudes and dudettes on here and any input, advice or opinions would certainly go towards the brain storm.
 
Thanks guys if you read this far.
 
20180504_103602.thumb.jpg.37cf6fd75df2a1d40acef3c1c33b2434.jpg20180504_101524.thumb.jpg.e96cd6b49f2e87ce454250daaa57af40.jpg20180506_153214.thumb.jpg.c7594637910612a830a21e0b9544f4de.jpg20180504_104824.thumb.jpg.5f230f9c5b06a3f16cb8bf253651fb2f.jpg


Check the vct bolt is tight , what about camshaft seals?? Unfortunately a drip near the gears can throw it everwhere, but I've had an external oil leak from head gasket which didn't spread to the cylinders ( on a BMW not RB25) check the easy stuff first then take the car back to get the head gasket checked There are no seals that can effect their part of the work because you eliminated any chance first by checking the easy stuff

If there is a substantial groove in the crankshaft it will never seal no matter how many new seals. 
Yea it was all pooled down there... But when I changed the seal Just to be certain, the one I pulled out was bone dry, if there IS a groove i guess I'm pretty screwed anyway [emoji17]
Check the vct bolt is tight , what about camshaft seals?? Unfortunately a drip near the gears can throw it everwhere, but I've had an external oil leak from head gasket which didn't spread to the cylinders ( on a BMW not RB25) check the easy stuff first then take the car back to get the head gasket checked There are no seals that can effect their part of the work because you eliminated any chance first by checking the easy stuff
I'll check the VCT bolt tonight for sure, otherwise Yea, might have a chat to the dudes who did it.. cause all the easy stuff has now been changed and checked

Was there oil present on the rear face of the Harmonic Balancer? I have in the past shimmed the seal forward 1mm when removing the engine was not possible. Its fiddly and a bodge but it worked. I got the shim from Blackwoods they have a large range in their catalogue. Oil leaks are a PITA wish you all the luck in the world mate

Was there oil present on the rear face of the Harmonic Balancer? I have in the past shimmed the seal forward 1mm when removing the engine was not possible. Its fiddly and a bodge but it worked. I got the shim from Blackwoods they have a large range in their catalogue. Oil leaks are a PITA wish you all the luck in the world mate
Hmm the balancer look like it only had some sprayed oil from the timing belt and sprocket going around... But I'll have a look into this. Thanks heaps for the info !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...