Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Import wreckers anywhere and everywhere.  Most front cuts probably just had these thrown away though, sadly.

I'd help you out by going out and measuring the resistance of mine at a couple of temperatures so you could work out what it is (almost certainly a thermistor).  But.....I'm on the other side of the planet from my car and will be so for more than a week.  Return date still sufficiently vague that I won't even promise.

Edited by GTSBoy
crappy typing skillz
  • Thanks 1

Funny you should be in the US (permanently).  That's where I am (temporarily).  Was in the wilds of Wyoming and Utah yesterday.  Southern Indiana today.  Back to Utah in a couple of days.  Then Wyoming again.

None of this helps you, obviously........but......if you can find an early 90s Maxima or any similar crappy FWD up-spec Nissan from the same era, there's a decent chance that the external temp sensor is the same thing.

  • Thanks 1

Effectively, yes.  Although I would do it a bit more classy that just soldering it direct.  I'd try to arrange it inside a suitable case with crimp connectors for the loom connection.

But my point about scrounging one from another Nissan was that it should be the same* thing, meaning you don't have to stuff about except to put a loom plug back on the chopped wiring.

* Maybe not the same housing - but hopefully the same electrically.

  • Thanks 1
3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Effectively, yes.  Although I would do it a bit more classy that just soldering it direct.  I'd try to arrange it inside a suitable case with crimp connectors for the loom connection.

But my point about scrounging one from another Nissan was that it should be the same* thing, meaning you don't have to stuff about except to put a loom plug back on the chopped wiring.

* Maybe not the same housing - but hopefully the same electrically.

It doesn’t plug into anything right? Just sits and measures atmospheric air temp?

OK, so you have the loom plug and the other half of that connector and the short length of wires and no sensor.  That wasn't clear from the outset, but it is now.  Someone has yanked the sensor straight off the wires!

Should be easy enough if you can find a sensor to solder on there.

Edited by GTSBoy
7 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

OK, so you have the loom plug and the other half of that connector and the short length of wires and no sensor.  That wasn't clear from the outset, but it is now.  Someone has yanked the sensor straight off the wires!

Should be easy enough if you can find a sensor to solder on there.

I am sorry for not pulling this whole mechanism out earlier. Any ideas I can find something. 

the r32 gtr is also notorious for having a problem with the a/c blend door

 

i fitted the proper ambient air temp sensor to mine (still available brand new from nissan japan) but still had the same problem as you, you can feel under the dash & there is a pug on the base of the ac unit, if you push on the plug it can open the blend door so it blows cold air, google it, some people have fixed by wedging something in there so the plug makes better contact, the proper fix is to resolder the internals of the unit

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/uploads/post-20278-1273149733.jpg

8 hours ago, stroobzilla said:

the r32 gtr is also notorious for having a problem with the a/c blend door

 

i fitted the proper ambient air temp sensor to mine (still available brand new from nissan japan) but still had the same problem as you, you can feel under the dash & there is a pug on the base of the ac unit, if you push on the plug it can open the blend door so it blows cold air, google it, some people have fixed by wedging something in there so the plug makes better contact, the proper fix is to resolder the internals of the unit

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/uploads/post-20278-1273149733.jpg

Is this on the drivers side 

unfortunately I pulled the lower dash card out and I think I found where you were talking about and with no luck. with the engine running it felt like a decent 55 degrees F coming through the floor vent but when I turned on the ac the temperature never changed either

As a temporary fix so you don't have to drive around with hot air coming out just disconnect the Blend door motor from rod that connects it to the door (passenger side footwell), then you can just operate the door manually to be on hot or cold or anywhere in-between. I did this for awhile and basically ran a summer setting and a winter setting. 

6 hours ago, Gareth said:

As a temporary fix so you don't have to drive around with hot air coming out just disconnect the Blend door motor from rod that connects it to the door (passenger side footwell), then you can just operate the door manually to be on hot or cold or anywhere in-between. I did this for awhile and basically ran a summer setting and a winter setting. 

Is this easily accessible ?

Yeah absolutely, (this is assuming Gtr and Gts-t are the same) but it's just on the right hand side of the passenger footwell (up under the dash a little), After i fixed the thing that diverts the air to different areas (because that also wasn't working when i got the car) i actually ended up disconnecting it again as the climate control deciding where it wants to direct the air by itself as you change the temperature was pissing me off so much. Now i just reach under the dash (can be done while driving, as this one is in a similar position but on drivers side) and manually shift it to windscreen or face, slightly less convenient but way less annoying 

Edited by Gareth

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...