Jump to content
SAU Community

No Start Please help Guys

SkylineR33Lad
 Share

Recommended Posts

SkylineR33Lad Explorer

SkylineR33Lad

Posted
Posted

Ok so here we go. I brought a r33 series 2 gtst with low compression. It was running before i pulled the head off. I found that the head was f**ked and the exhaust vavles were leaking badly. the cam caps were around the wrong way witch destroyed the journals. So i have a second hand head that has been fully overhauled. Cost me a arm and a leg. Ive put everything back together and tried to start it. It cranks but no fire. I have found that the half moon pin on the exhaust cam is snapped off and ive set the engine to TDC and alined the cas to where the moon use to be and still no start. I get a fire every now and then but wont start. I can hear the injecters ticking and ive got spark. Im 99% sure the timming is right. Both cam and crank timmig marks all seem to line up. Ive allso checked ive got the fuel line going into the rail and fuel return out the regulator. Ive tried 3 different cas's. It has a adjustable HKS exhaust cam gear. It hasnt been adjusted and was all running okay before i pulled it apart. Really appreciate any help guys thanks20180605_172606.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474212-no-start-please-help-guys/
Share on other sites
SkylineR33Lad Explorer

SkylineR33Lad

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok so here we go. I brought a r33 series 2 gtst with low compression. It was running before i pulled the head off. I found that the head was f**ked and the exhaust vavles were leaking badly. the cam caps were around the wrong way witch destroyed the journals. So i have a second hand head that has been fully overhauled. Cost me a arm and a leg. Ive put everything back together and tried to start it. It cranks but no fire. I have found that the half moon pin on the exhaust cam is snapped off and ive set the engine to TDC and alined the cas to where the moon use to be and still no start. I get a fire every now and then but wont start. I can hear the injecters ticking and ive got spark. Im 99% sure the timming is right. Both cam and crank timmig marks all seem to line up. Ive allso checked ive got the fuel line going into the rail and fuel return out the regulator. Ive tried 3 different cas's. It has a adjustable HKS exhaust cam gear. It hasnt been adjusted and was all running okay before i pulled it apart. Really appreciate any help guys thanks20180605_172606.thumb.jpg.48d58e38df6e871d4b2f85cd8f9947ac.jpg

I thought id just leave this herr20180606_072120.jpg
SkylineR33Lad Explorer

SkylineR33Lad

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So as from my research the half moon is just a locater so it makes it easy to line up the timing. When its broken you have to manually line up the teeth on the cas by having it TDC and theres a mark on my cas that when lined up it lines up to where the broken tooth use to be. Its hard to explain. But ive got that sorted im pretty sure. Ill upload some photos. Ive just pulled my coils and plugs back out and ive got a really strong spark on all 6. Im trying to look down the cylinders and turn the cas to see if i can see fuel going into the cylinders but i cant see fuel but i can head the injecters. Does anyone know if i should be able to see fuel getting sprayed into the cylinders.

SkylineR33Lad Explorer

SkylineR33Lad

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update. So when i use my noid lights to check pulse on the injecters it lights up when the fuel pump is primeing and soon as i cant here the fuel pump theres no more flashing from the noid light. Ive check theres a solid 12.4V at the injecters

SkylineR33Lad Explorer

SkylineR33Lad

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok so it looks like im not getting injection pulse. The noid light lights up once and then doesnt come back on. I can hear and see the coil packs sparking away but just no injection. Ive got power supply and ive tries 3 different cases. Also swapped ecus still nothing. Looks like i might have a wiring issue im assuming

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

Pull out the coils and spark plugs, place the plugs into each coil and rest them on the cam cover creating an earthing point.

Remove the CAS from the motor however have it connected to the loom, power the car and manually rotate it and see if all cylinders are firing and if the fuel pump relay clicks over.

A bit ghetto but does the trick when you're on a stock ECU as there isn't an easy way of viewing the data you need.

SkylineR33Lad Explorer

SkylineR33Lad

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok guys. Update
Ive done what your guys have recommened and still no luck so i thought id start f**king around with the harness and i was testing continuity between ecu and cas. I found my injecter line was broken somewhere. So i ran a wire from my ecu to the cas and now i have injection pulse. But now we have another problem. It fires a little bit when i fully retard the timing via the cas. So i thought id remove the bolts from the cas and retarded another 30-45 degrees and after 20 seconds of cranking it finally starting but didnt sound good at all. I touch the throttle and it died straight away. Im certian that my timing has to be out because why else would i have to retard my timming that much to get it to run. And not even run good. Im going to pull my timming belt back off and check the timming again. Will keep you guys posted.

SkylineR33Lad Explorer

SkylineR33Lad

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay guys so i found my problem and need yout help. When i was timming up my timming belt i didnt relise that the hks exhaust cam gear i using has to timming dots and im certain that i time it ul to the wrong timming dot. Has anyone every fitted a hks cam gear and what mark do i use to time it up. P.S im praying to the car gods that i havnt bent any valves on my freshly reconed head!!!

SkylineR33Lad Explorer

SkylineR33Lad

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi guys thought id just leave this here as shes all running nicely now. The issue was that i had the wrong timming mark lined up witch i am amazed at how i didnt bend any valves. The car gods were watching over me. So all running good now. Now time to go blow some tyres. Cheers for the help guys

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • Duncan
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Duncan
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By Duncan · Posted

      Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Duncan
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...