Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would assume the auto diff is LSD, but dont rely on that.

Fuel consumption I imagine will increase on the highway at a minimum. As you will be at a higher rpm to sit on 100km/h than with the 4.11. I have a 4.33 in my R31 and it sits just under 3,000rpm to do 100km/h.

Also understand that your speedo calibration will end up being incorrect. The speedo reading will be higher than your actual road speed.

But if you have aftermarket rims that have a overall bigger diameter than the stock rims they might cancel each other out and the speedo might be very close.

Just get it checked next time you are on a dyno.

I don't know about 33's and 32's but in the 34 the auto diff is a viscous LSD and the manual is a helical LSD.  The ratios are both difference too I think.

For manual R34's, between Series 1 and 2, the LSD changed. And i can never remember which way :cheers: I think it went from Viscous in Series 1 to Helical in Series 2. I've got a 50/50 chance ;)

cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But seriously, can we ask for the results of the "tip a bottle of metho into a nearly empty tank" experiment?
    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
×
×
  • Create New...