Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So my 92 Type M has a strange misfire issue that happens when the car hits .55 to .68 bar. RPM doesnt seem to matter nor does what gear im in.

Car has 108k on it, stock except for a BOV and coilovers.

Keeps telling me all clear on the CEL so im sort of at a loss. The car idles perfectly fine and under normal acceleration but as soon as the boost hits about .55 bar and it starts to stumble.

Hope someone can help before i lose my mind haha

Edited by Hcr32typem
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475536-another-misfire-issue/
Share on other sites

Have you eliminated ignition system failure (plugs & coils)?  Weak sparks will not work once the boost rises.

Have you checked the fuel pressure under load?  Going lean and detonating can and will feel like a misfire - although if you're familiar with it you should be able to tell the difference.

If your AFM has a problem (reading too high, essentially) then your ECU could be doing the old "boost cut" routine.  They don't normally do that until higher boost levels - but might if the sensors are lying to it.

I just put a set of oem plugs in the car and the coils appear fine although i havent actually replaced them or not.

I also just put a new fuel pump and checked pressure on the system.

I replaced the MAF last year as well with a new unit.

20 minutes ago, Hcr32typem said:

You think it could manifest only at high boost? Idle and normal accel is rock solid

Weak coils ALWAYS show up under boost.  If the loom is sufficiently shit that there is horrible voltage drop, then the coils might not charge properly and so give the same symptoms.  It's usually coils before anything else though.

16 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Weak coils ALWAYS show up under boost.  If the loom is sufficiently shit that there is horrible voltage drop, then the coils might not charge properly and so give the same symptoms.  It's usually coils before anything else though.

Fair.

Still it only happens as it approaches .68 bar which i find a bit odd since it boosts perfectly up until that point

Now to find coils that arent 500 USD a set...

Edited by Hcr32typem

Splitfires are ~AU$550 at JustJap, similar pricing on eBay.  OEM coils are also available, for similar pricing.

But I must point out a couple of things.

1) DO NOT, under any circumstances, buy cheap coils.  The various other rainbow shades of coilpacks available will always lead to tears.  They have poor reliability (compared to Splitfire & original).

2) Just taking the easy option and installing Splitfires (or any other same-format coil) these days is stupid.  There are kits available to install Yaris (or other equivalent Toyota-Denso coils), Audi R8 coils, R35 GTR coils, etc etc.  These are ALL modern pencil coils with much much more spark energy than the shitty old ones that use the original RB format.  Some, like the Denso ones, are very cheap, but won't fit under the coil cover.  Others, like the GTR coils, may fit under the coil cover, but will cost some more.

If I had to replace my (Splitfires) - I would most certainly be doing pencil coils.  Guaranteed.  2JZs use them and they don't need coilpack upgrades to support stupid power.

1 hour ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

It's almost always shitty coils and shitty loom as gtsboy said. If I was you I would jam in RB25 S2 splitfires and delete the igniter and enjoy much more reliability.

Heres a question, are those a direct replacement or do you need a special harness or stand alone ecu to run them?

Splitfires are direct swap, as I said in earlier post.  You can get the right model for S1 RB25 (ie, needs and uses the igniter module on the back end of the head) or you can get the right model for the S2 RB25 (igniters are built into each coil).  As the old Nissan igniter pack is old and prone to failure, it is worthwhile to consider using the S2 type even on an S1, but you would have to do some re-wiring - which is well documented on the interballs.

None of those options requires an ECU change.  However, running a standard RB25 ECU is dumb, so it should be changed just as a matter of principle.

The pencil coil options I described are all available as kits with wiring adapters that just let you plug them in.  I think they are all "with igniter", so wouldn't necessarily work on an S1 or RB20 or early 26 without deleting the original igniter.  Again, no need to change the ECU for this, subject to what I said in above paragraph!

6 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Splitfires are direct swap, as I said in earlier post.  You can get the right model for S1 RB25 (ie, needs and uses the igniter module on the back end of the head) or you can get the right model for the S2 RB25 (igniters are built into each coil).  As the old Nissan igniter pack is old and prone to failure, it is worthwhile to consider using the S2 type even on an S1, but you would have to do some re-wiring - which is well documented on the interballs.

None of those options requires an ECU change.  However, running a standard RB25 ECU is dumb, so it should be changed just as a matter of principle.

The pencil coil options I described are all available as kits with wiring adapters that just let you plug them in.  I think they are all "with igniter", so wouldn't necessarily work on an S1 or RB20 or early 26 without deleting the original igniter.  Again, no need to change the ECU for this, subject to what I said in above paragraph!

I am running an upgraded ignitor not that makes an enormous difference but worth noting.

If it were mine, I'd pitch the "uprated" ignitor along with the coils and just go Yaris (or any similar Denso) coil - so long as I was willing to go without the coil cover.....or just space the coil cover up perhaps.  Or, if I were a bit more flush for cash, the R35 coil kit is the smartest move.

Very very minor wiring change needs to be done to run RB25 S2 'smart' coils. Will work with any standard or aftermarket ECU. Personally I much prefer splitfires over Yaris, but R35 coils are a clear winner, but twice the price and unnecessary if you just want a milt street car.

On 12/5/2018 at 1:37 PM, SeanR32GtSt said:

Go with splitfire. I did few months ago. Spendy yes but it’s direct and works. Just don’t ever go the cheap route. 

Think its worth replacing the harness first or do you think the coils are probably the problem?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...