Jump to content
SAU Community

Wiring engine help

Adz2332

By Adz2332,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
Posted

Hey all

I have a r31 drift car... i changed the rb30 for a rb20det. wired it all up using standard 20 computer etc

now the 20 has gone to heaven, i have an rb25.

ive got it all in, but what do i need to do re wiring? i have the stock 20 loom there and stock 20 computer.

can someone send me to a how to that actually works?

any tips?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475862-wiring-engine-help/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Somewhat depends on whether you have an S1 or S2 RB25.  Do you have Nistune in the ECU?  Otherwise, do you have a plan for making the VCT work?

The main points are:

  • Dealing with pin changes on the AFM and CAS.
  • Differences in connectors for things like the alternator (and AC compressor, if that matters to you, which it probably doesn't).
  • Ignitor pack/coils, which is where the S1/S@ thing comes in.

Probably best you give a little more info on the type of 25.  I'm not saying I've got the answers, but others might be better able to point you to the howto you want.

 

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

So you will need to Nistune the ECU anyway, because you need to be able to tune it to make it run the 25 properly anyway.  That can allow you to use the blinky LED of the ECU as another output to run the VCT.  Look at Nistune's support docs for how this is done.  If you don't do it that way, you will need to use an EBoost or something else with a window switch to allow you to switch the VCT on and off at the required revs.

The coil wiring should be all the same.  You just need to google up the pinout differences on the CAS and AFM, for the most part.

Oh, and injectors.  I don't know for sure, but it's probably the case that you will need different plugs.  Probably justified in binning the sidefeeds and using new EV14 based injectors, that you can buy with loom adapters to suit the RB20 plugs. (and a new fuel rail and the spacers and stuff you need to mount it all.)

Rusty Nuts Experienced

Rusty Nuts

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, Adz2332 said:

ive got it all in, but what do i need to do re wiring? i have the stock 20 loom there and stock 20 computer.

can someone send me to a how to that actually works?

Hey mate I have the R33 engine manual on PDF has all the RB20 / RB25 / RB26  ecu pinouts and the component wiring diagrams ( no colour wiring unfortunately ) if you want it I can pm it to you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • GTSBoy
      R34 manual conversion speed signal wire finding, need help

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • GTSBoy
      First time Skyline owner

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...