Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All,

 

i am installing my walbro fuel pump this weekend. I understand the r34 gtt standard wiring uses a two stage fuel relay so on idle it cuts fuel or supply much less voltage (11v ) than 13.5 v.

 

my question is, i normally use a joint coupler with heat shrink covers. Is that ok inside a fuel pump? Obviously i will do the connection outsite of the fuel pump and then put it back in to the fuel pump.

 

i don’t think you can use electrical tape, can you ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475982-r34-walbro-255-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

I'm maybe thinking more along the lines of a small I.D silicone fuel resistant hose (small motor fuel hose) line the exposed wiring/solder joint with something like https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/permatex-permatex-fuel-resistant-gasket-sealant-85420/356517.html and slip the silicone fuel resistant hose over it. the gasket sealant is non hardening so should keep even a slightly loose hose in place permanently as the sealant wont harden. Best I can come up with man hope it helps!

Thanks, will check it out

 

i am pretty worried on what happengs if positive and negative touch inside the fuel tank.

 

i think answer is spark and then boom. Have fine japaniese engeenering not thought of this?

 

even if fused, a small spark is enough to blow up the car with 60 liters of gas

 

re wire, i am thinking of soldering, what do you recon?

There can't be a boom in a sealed file tank even if the wires touch. No oxygen.

 

When I do pumps I offet the joints, so they can't touch and the use a piece of submersible fuel line over the positive joint. Like heat shrink but not shrunk.  None have exploded, so that's a pretty good result.

4 hours ago, drifter17a said:

If for whatever reason they do, screw coming loose?

 

lots of diy jumps simply use a wire connector so they could be setting up a death trap 

 

just amazed really on how stupied the design is

 

 

Too rich to ignite, even if you arched something inside the tank it won't ignite, even if created a physical spark it still won't ignite.

Engineers aren't stupid :)

 

8 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Too rich to ignite, even if you arched something inside the tank it won't ignite, even if created a physical spark it still won't ignite.

Engineers aren't stupid :)

 

that is what I didn't know :)

 

well I was going mad getting all sort of sleeve to ensure they won't touch ...

5 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

If you don't believe us take off your petrol lid and drop a match in

will do later this evening, use my blow tourch .

 

i wonder why in the UK there is an old trick of calling the police and asking for a car to be removed which seems to have been abandoned by removing fuel cap and saying it is a fire hazard.

 

normally when the car is taxed( road tax) and MOT( mechanical check once a year) then they won't remove it but it if it annoying you people do above

 

14 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

If you don't believe us take off your petrol lid and drop a match in

Do not do this on a warm day, there will just enough fuel vapours and just enough air to ignite, just as the match goes down into the fuel neck lol

2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Do not do this on a warm day, there will just enough fuel vapours and just enough air to ignite, just as the match goes down into the fuel neck lol

Won’t go boom though.  Do it. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...