Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 GT N/A Fuel Pump Wiring

Toff

By Toff,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Toff Contributor

Toff

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,  Tried bumping an old thread on this subject a few days ago but no joy. Anyway, I have an ENR34 And i was intending on doing the GTT "Hard Wire" mod to get constant voltage on my fuel pump. However after a quick search i found that this is possibly not needed?

The thread had one comment stating that they had the same plugs etc but no relay to adjust the voltage. Would this mean it recieves a constant voltage closer to 15v say, Or is it a lot lower? 

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291561-r34-turbo-fuel-system-on-na-same-wiring-harness/

Have i got it back to front?

 

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476054-r34-gt-na-fuel-pump-wiring/
Share on other sites
Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

Also if the car is N/A I would wager the N/A pump could live with the N/A Wiring.

This was really more of a mod for aftermarket pumps that really wanted (needed) a direct 14v.

Toff Contributor

Toff

Posted
  • Author
Posted

@GTSBoy Ahhhh the infamous GTSBoy smartass, super helpful comment, I love reading these when i browse the site. In response to that i am away with work so an ask on a forum is the next best thing isnt it? Because then i get helpful people like yourself answering for me.

And @iruvyouskyrine @Kinkstaah I should have added, I swapped in a forged NEO with Borgwarner S362 and Link G4+ Fury etc etc etc so its no longer N/A. Swapped hubs etc also. So i need a constant supply. 

Last option is pull it all and rewire the lot but i dont think i require it. Walbro 460LPH And Bosch EV14 850CC Injectors

 

Thanks for your help

 

Toff Contributor

Toff

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

@GTSBoy I had a look at page 19 of the workshop manual  but not 100% on what i am looking at tbh! It clarified that the fuel pump control module and dropping resistor are not included on the DE motors, but as far as what voltage is actually supplied im still not sure. Could you tell me what voltage is received? As far as i can work out the lines that run back to the ECU plug are voltage supplied, so im guessing its just 14v or whatever is sent to the plug? Or am i way off the mark? Battery supplies plug with 14v or whatever and everything off that plug that takes a feed regulates itself with resistors and voltage droppers etc?

 

Thanks

Edited by Toff
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

If the power is "controlled" by the ECU then it is very unlikely to be anything other than battery voltage.  There is no sense in dropping resistors etc inside an ECU.  That would just generate waste heat, which is the enemy of electronics.  It's the reason why the FPCM on the turbos is a separate module.

The only thing likely to be in the ECU would be a MOSFET to switch the power down to earth.  (ie, it is unlikely that the ECU is the source of 12V for the pump.  Instead, it is most likely that the power comes from the battery (through a fuse), through the pump and switched to earth at the ECU).

If you have the diagram, post it up.  I don't think I would have the R34 NA diagrams around here, unless they are hiding in the GTT manual.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Turns out the DE wiring diagram is the same as the DET wiring diagram with DET specific parts labelled.  On the pasted image, ignore the bits I put the red box around.  They are DET specific (basically the FPCM and the dropping resistor that makes it work).

You have fused power coming in from the left, through the fuel pump relay.  The switched side of the relay runs through the fuel pump to earth, and the coil side of the relay runs to the ECU's pin that activates the relay.  That's it.  It's effectively direct wired....just probably with thin wire.

image.thumb.png.dea2ac32b640e166354e5803c7d3cc9e.png

Edited by GTSBoy
Toff Contributor

Toff

Posted
  • Author
Posted

@GTSBoy That's the diagram I was looking at, I was on the right track then! Thanks for your help, much appreciated. We got there in the end!

Hopefully be useful to others in the future.

 

Thanks

Toff

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...