Jump to content
SAU Community

RB30 block needed ASAP

ktech

By ktech,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

ktech Rookie

ktech

Posted
Posted

Hi.

First of all, do anybody in here know if there are different deck height on the RB30 Blocks, like different models ?

Reason im asking is that I have a block here that has a 226,5mm deck height, and what other people tell me is that stock is 230.5mm

im looking for a new block, since this block keep messing things up and going out of straight.

So any info is appreciated, and let me know if someone has anything available.

Kenneth

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476061-rb30-block-needed-asap/
Share on other sites
Rusty Nuts Experienced

Rusty Nuts

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, ktech said:

First of all, do anybody in here know if there are different deck height on the RB30 Blocks, like different models

No, they are all the same. If you have a crazy deck height, your block has been molested by a previous owner trying to fit 25 pistons to it.

ktech Rookie

ktech

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

No, they are all the same. If you have a crazy deck height, your block has been molested by a previous owner trying to fit 25 pistons to it.

Really, you think someone has machined 4mm off the Deck, thats crazy. I been wondering since day 1 why it was so short.

Anyway, yes im in Denmark and you might be right shipping gonna be alot :(

Rusty Nuts Experienced

Rusty Nuts

Posted
Posted

Yes I really think the deck has been machined down that far, its lucky they didn't strike water jacket. This would certainly reduce block rigidity. You probably only have a couple of mm of solid deck surface. Sorry brother.

ktech Rookie

ktech

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, Rusty Nuts said:

Yes I really think the deck has been machined down that far, its lucky they didn't strike water jacket. This would certainly reduce block rigidity. You probably only have a couple of mm of solid deck surface. Sorry brother.

That might be the reason also why the mains keep getting out of straight. 

Its been line bored at least 2 times. Last time it cost a 94mm spool crank after only 10 miles. Just had it in the cnc machine again and its gone in the mains again. 

Rusty Nuts Experienced

Rusty Nuts

Posted
Posted
24 minutes ago, ktech said:

That might be the reason also why the mains keep getting out of straight

Absolutely. When I built my 30/25 I had the mains checked for line boring and my guy said not worth it the block was straight. The crank was also only linished and also checked out straight, the bores still showed the original hone marks top to bottom. The engine had travelled 150,000 km, and from talking to other builders this is not uncommon with these blocks. they were obviously very well cast and machined using excellent materials.

Rusty Nuts Experienced

Rusty Nuts

Posted
Posted

If you are running a 94mm crank throw what is the piston compression height and rod length. Asked a couple of mates and consensus was you can't remove 4mm from deck without hitting a cylinder parting. Apart from the proximity of the water gallery running just below the deck on exhaust side.

ktech Rookie

ktech

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

If you are running a 94mm crank throw what is the piston compression height and rod length. Asked a couple of mates and consensus was you can't remove 4mm from deck without hitting a cylinder parting. Apart from the proximity of the water gallery running just below the deck on exhaust side.

I had custum piston made to fit the spool crank and rods, so i didnt notice from the beginning that the block was actually 4mm to short. I did wonder why Jeremy at JE piston told me that stock Deck height was 230.5mm. I was sure that there had to be different kind of blocks, since i could not imagine anyone that stupid to remove 4mm from a Block.

Anyway, i need a new one and i will need to order new pistons to fit the new block, and this time hope that it will stay straight. 

In case Griffin dont want to sell the one he has, do you know where to look up those kinda blocks ?

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...