Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good evening all, was driving around town and car stalled during the drive. Got the car parked and narrowed down the issue to the fuel pump not priming or turning on at all.

For starters: 1990 BNR32, Apexi ECU and Power FC, Deatschwerks fuel pump.

To sum up all the troubleshooting I've done:

  1. Shot power for fuel pump relay and coupling to cap of tank, 12v of power is provided for a second, then relay shuts off providing no power. (while key is in on position)
  2. Installed R33 GTR fuel pump and once again pump is not priming.
  3. Fuses all intact.
  4. Provided direct power to Deatschwerks fuel pump, pump did not turn on. (Gonna get a new pump)
  5. Swapped batteries to a new one.

Any recommendations going forward to try and narrow down this electrical gremlin? Is there a fail safe where the relay will not provide constant power if a pump is not installed?

Thanks!

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476645-bnr32-gtr-fuel-relay-problem/
Share on other sites

Look at the wiring diagram out of the service manual. The pump is controlled by the ECU, so you need to understand where the wires come from to know when they should be powered/earthed.  Randomly jumping power into the relay circuit is not necessarily going to help, and may do the opposite.

I had hot starting problems after installing a larger fuel pump and larger grounding relay. It ended up being the original fuel pump module not wanting to send the correct signal to the pump. Once the module was bypassed, car now starts when hot without issue.

Just another thing to consider.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi GTSBoy, Excuse my ignorance but what does a "Bad" Knee point mean ? 
    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
×
×
  • Create New...