Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Is there anyone locally who is highly regarded in building and advising on GTR suspension set-ups or am I going to have to work with someone in Sydney?

I'm about to put my 32 on the rotisserie and while the subframe is out, I'm going to pull it apart completely and rebuild/have someone else rebuild all suspension and handling elements, before re-uniting it with the chassis. I'll most likely have MCA build the coilovers (have them on my GC8 and am happy with them) but it's all the other stuff I'm seeking advice on (bracing, bushes, brackets, swaybars, links etc).

Recommendations?

Thanks. Andrew.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476657-suspensionhandling-specialists/
Share on other sites

Hi Andrew, what is the target use for the car? Clean road car and spirited driving? Or something more specialist.

If the former, and noting you are going to the effort of rotisserie, replace every ball joint, rod end and bush with factory or aftermarket items. New, factory style is fine for that sort of use but if you want improvements then caster rods, front upper control arms and hicas lock out are the main things.  If you are going MCA for shocks they will recommend springs to match (generally quite heavy) and so you would either use stock or light upgrade sway bars.

If it's for drag, drift, circuit race or rally they are all more specialist discussions.

Thanks Duncan.

Car will be a semi-daily (dry weather days), but would like the setup to be capable of competing in Targa events and similar. Power figure will be circa 600kw ATW on pump98, so the suspension will need to be capable of keeping the car heading roughly in the right direction (appreciate that my right foot is primarily responsible for this). 

Is there anyone you know of who could advise on specific products? My challenge at the moment is knowing which brands to use for which specific areas, to build a holistic package. i.e. are Nismo control arms preferable to Ikeya Formula control arms etc (and the same questions for each part of the setup). 

Notoras Motorsport are down in Fyshwick and have set up some pretty serious japanese cars, mainly known for their work on Evos and Hondas, but im sure they have worked on Skylines also.  Could be a good starting place?

https://www.facebook.com/pg/notarasmotorsport

https://www.notarasmotorsport.com.au/

 

Inline suspension in Queanbeyan have good feedback also, as well as Racing Ready motorsport in West Belconnen. 

https://www.truelocal.com.au/business/inline-steering-and-suspension/queanbeyan

https://www.racingready.com.au

 

Edited by JGTC

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just a thought, how come you didn't use a 4D table? So you essentially run 2x fuel and 2x ignition tables, and the table/map switch is handled when there's enough WMI pressure detected. This is mine, but using the flex sensor as the 4th dimension, note the slider at the bottom. Between 0 to 70%, the timing is blended/interpolated , once it goes past 70% ethanol full send
    • Hi guys, after dreaming of owning a JDM legend for 20 years, I got the chance to buy a 1995 R33 GTR.  I live in a small country called the Solomon Islands which is in the pacific. There is no performance car scene here, however 90% of vehicles here are 2nd hand Japanese imports so there is a handful of JDM sports cars here, tucked away.  3 Evo VI’s, 1 180sx turbo, 2 GTO’s, 1 R32 GTR and 2 R33 GTR’s.    Only 1 Evo and a 33 (mine) are active. I’m hoping to set up a club to get these cars back in the road.    I’d known of my GTR for 9 years and always dreamed of owning it. At the start of this year I found it sitting outside a workshop waiting for a respray. It was in pretty bad shape, although running and driving perfectly apart from a big exhaust leak and worn out bushings. My brother in law who is a huge GTR guy came over for a holiday and I took him to see it, he got into my ear and I bought the car 2 weeks later as is.   I’ve had a pretty bad problem with alcohol and weed since 2020 and I really wanted to quit. So I used this as my motivation. I quit everything cold turkey and have been investing all my spare time into restoring this car. It’s honestly been the best experience and has been such a positive impact on my life.  There is no market for these cars here, no parts and no mechanics that can work on them, so if you wanted to sell one it would be pretty impossible unless you found the right buyer. After a bit of negotiating with the previous owner (a good friend) I got the car for $15,000 AUD ($85,000 SBD) which is insane.  I’ve almost finished doing a refresh on the engine, new turbos, spark plugs and split fire coil packs. Also new gaskets and seals, This car had no leaks to begin with, but it’s due now being 30 years old. . Next I’ll be working on the suspension, all new bushings, ball joints, king pins and new coil overs.  Then it will be body work, it has really bad rust in the boot floor, I have purchased a rear beaver cut from my bro which will replace the rusted out one. The car is originally KL0, but was burnt orange when it landed here, then it was resprayed toxic green and then Bayside Blue. I’m probably going to get it redone in Bayside Blue.  I’m super grateful to be able to enjoy this car and couldn’t have done it without my bro Chris from OG-JDM. Looking forward to the future with this car and hoping to get it on the runway at the airport here 😂  cheers fellas 
    • Also, it is just about triangularity. The less angle, the easier it physically is to do. Think of the amount of slip you're getting, as how hard you need to push an object. More slip, equals pushing way harder. Then the ramp is how steep the hill is. The Accel is less slip, which means it takes less pushing (less slip) to get it to be able to push apart. However, the steeper sides on the decell means it will take a lot more pushing (slip) to get it up the ramp.
    • It's the angle of the ramp from the vertical. You're measuring from the horizontal. To convert, take 90* minus your angle reference = Nismo Angle.
    • I agree, thus 45 degree is the *max* force one could apply to it. This is similar to what I've seen in uh... simulations... which allow you to play with diff ramp angles. Anything higher (or lower) than 45 degree would produce less force as 45 is the max... triangley.  I would state the 1 way is 90 degree, at least this is how my brain and other ways of explaining it refer to it. 90 degree also effectively acted completely open. I realise Nismo refer to it not as 90 (or 89) but "1". So I'm not understanding the angle on which these angles are based.
×
×
  • Create New...