Jump to content
SAU Community

Electrical issue c33 Laurel rb25det

Adrianrb
 Share

Recommended Posts

Adrianrb Rookie

Adrianrb

Posted
Posted

So I have a c33 laurel swapped stock rb25det built myself and been running for a year with no issues, Couple months ago my car started to just shut off while driving no pattern emerged as to when or why, would just be completely random. Sometimes would go days without doing it sometimes 3/4 times a day. All I would have to do is just turn the key off and back on and she would fire straight back up. 

Then progressively got worse and I’d have to turn they key a couple of times. Then got to the point it wouldn’t fire, I assume electrical but Ive got no idea where to start looking. 

Basically when it happens I loose all dash lights after a split second, ecu still has power, radio still works, windows work, car turns over, fuel pump doesn’t prime.

so far I have tested every relay i could find in the car except fuel pump, pulled ever fuse, gone over all loom given it a shake to try source a possible loose connection or break in wire and found nothing

im thinking it could possible be my alarm but was installed by previous owner and wouldn’t know where to start. Completely stummed and would love to pick your guys brains to get her back up and running for summer 

cheers in advance for any help ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478826-electrical-issue-c33-laurel-rb25det/
Share on other sites
PLYNX Mentor

PLYNX

Posted
Posted

Is it a series 1 motor ? Then its probably the air flow meter. The internal connector pins that are soldered together have come apart and need re-soldering. Run a search here on this forum i think there is a tutorial on it.

Adrianrb Rookie

Adrianrb

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 minutes ago, PLYNX said:

Is it a series 1 motor ? Then its probably the air flow meter. The internal connector pins that are soldered together have come apart and need re-soldering. Run a search here on this forum i think there is a tutorial on it.

She’s a series 2, I have been having problems with afm wiring definitely a crappy connection at the plug somewhere but tried having a wriggle around and doesn’t fix anything usually just goes into limp doesn’t shut car off when she plays up 

Adrianrb Rookie

Adrianrb

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Update... 

so ecu doesn’t have power when car dies but when power to ecu is unplugged in the engine bay the dash lights return 

I’m assuming fault with ecu have opened up and cannot see any visible issues, possibly short somewhere but stumped because will run for a few minutes then switch off and not run for a hour or two

with car running and I unplug afm car dies but will start and run in limp, return to normal once plugged in. I don’t see it being an issue with afm  

Edited by Adrianrb

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...