Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so have finally finished putting the box back together, but now it's all assembled and housings are back on, I have an issue where it's locked in 4th gear constantly and will only turn by hand in 4th or neutral, but the whole shaft turns in neutral, not just one end. It selects all gears fine but won't turn in any other gear. Before I put the housings back on I confirmed all gears select and shift as they should and all turn accordingly with the gear selected, but once the front housing is back on, it locks up. I stripped it back down to make sure hadn't made any error in reassembly and the syncros bearings etc all sitting as they should, and everything was fine but as soon as the front housing went back on, it locks up again. I haven't filled it with any fluid yet so I'm thinking maybe is there too much friction on the 4th syncro when it's dry? (although I did put a little grease on it on it when reassembling for the 2nd time, hasn't made any difference). 

This box was a 2nd-hander off gumtree so I never actually used it myself to know of any issue with it prior. At a standstill with it now so, ideas are welcome.

Definitely sounds like 4th synchro is not letting go. Usually some oil squirted there fixes it and sounds like you're onto it being a dry problem. Have seen that happen on our boxes, and have had calls about boxes doing that with new sychros we have supplied.

Thank you once again for your help. I was going to give it a part-fill before putting it back in the car and give it a thorough turning over to get oil over everything; hopefull does the trick.

Hey mate on a more serious note, please tell me you used Threebond 1207C sealant on the bottom three front cover bolts and NOT threadlocker (or even worse nothing) ? Had to pull my dog box out of my 32 on the weekend, after the one box we didn't do ourselves and outsourced pissed oil out of the front cover. Noticed a slight drip under bellhousing and though fcuk, they didn't did they ? Found this as expected...

IMG_1947.jpg

WP_20191012_15_50_48_Pro.jpg

WP_20191012_15_49_22_Pro.jpg

WP_20191012_15_49_12_Pro.jpg

WP_20191012_16_58_53_Pro.jpg

WP_20191012_17_16_51_Pro.jpgPretty annoying to pull a box out to reseal 3 bolts, but said transmission specialist was very apologetic after I showed him the stuff up. We didn't check front cover before install, but why would we ? It was done by a very experienced transmission specialist that knows what they're doing, so it can and does happen to anyone. It is in the Nissan manual after all so no excuse....

Check, check, check

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...