Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Guys after many hours. I found these on ebay. U reckon these are cheap?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33741

All the places in aus i rang said the 1 inch of silicone hose was like 15-20 bux. I cant vaouch for the quality of the ebay stuff but it seems i can get like 40 incehs for like 100 bux and 18 bux delivery whihc is like much cheaper than here.

Also found reducers for like 11 bux each. Her in AUS I was quoted like 40 bux a reducer. WTF :bs!:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33742

Unless u guys can get me better im gonna go with these. When i start this project.

hey i noticed you fellas using mild steel piping, im currenltly in the process of removing this from my car after it has rusted and is blowing chuncks of shit into the engine, how are you guys getting around this?

waldo - did you paint the inside of the pipe as well ? I think I might try and paint the inside aswell.

A second set of hands does wonders.

To put the front mount on yourself, heres how i did it. sit on front for the bar with legs extended and place cooler on your knees. bend knees to lift cooler up and bolt it in. This was soooooooooo gheettooooo.

Well the cooler is on now on my car. will take pics.

anyone that wants to weld the pipes together yourself * hint * have lots of practice first.

I botch my job up, I used an arc welder $109 from repco * im poor, if i could get a mig i would *. so the rest of the welding was just to join the pipes together to hold and I placed the silicon hose over the top and bold it down.

I will also use the welder to put a lip on the pipes so that its harder to slip off.

pipes all up was $110 from livo exhuast

3#-> 2.5# reducer hose @ $25 each X 2- Shift perfomance

2.5 3inch hose @ @ 20 Each

t-bolt clamps @ $13 each X 12

bracket.jpg

bracket i made, its bolted on where the horn used to be

http://www.tygarbyte.com/huev/images/inter...racketmount.jpg

I grinded that lump to make the surface flat. and then painted it.

front1.jpg

front2.jpg

height from the ground.

clearance2.jpg

total days to install all by myself ? 4 dayssssss.............. got freakin sunburnt doing it tooo.

Hopefully i should have it completed tomorrow.

where did u buy piping and silicone from

it would be less for pipe work and silcone i paid around $240 all up

nozila- check lazy bastards pics out he was the one who did it before me on his 33 look up a couple of posts and u will see him

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...