Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just got a R33 and have been working on it just over a month now with a friend. Since received the car has had boost issues whenever it's under throttle. Sometimes the boost gauge doesn't go past 5-7psi with the car sputtering like crazy under acceleration. Other times the boost gauge shoots way past 10psi almost instantaneously. First we checked the compression to find 170-180psi across all 6 cylinders (most were 180). We then removed the plugs, cleaned them, gapped them (0.035-0.040) and re-installed. No difference. We heard an air leak from the intake side when we first got it, so we took off the manifold and replaced all gaskets and hoses. The air leak was gone but the problem persisted. We took out the factory fuel pump and filter, put in a new filter and a 340lph fuel pump. Problem persists. We tried two aftermarket manual boost controllers. We used every vacuum diagram on the web for a R33 boost solenoid (sadly there are literally guides stating that every way to run the hoses is correct). We removed the heat shield to the turbo and could move the wastegate manually, so chances are it isn't stuck. Problem persisted. We then ran a hose directly from the charge pipe (coming off the intercooler to the intake pipe), directly to the wastegate (bypassed the solenoid) which should give us 5-7psi. The problem persists.

When you're driving anywhere below 3psi the car runs like normal. It has a factory ECU with zero codes. Stock turbo, stock intercooler, stock piping. The only aftermarket mods are HKS plugs, Apexi Filter, and downpipe/exhaust. Neither of us has any idea why this car continues overboosting causing a horrible sputter. We appreciate any help this community can offer.

If it's misfiring at 5 psi or so, then it is weak ignition. Your coils are the most likely culprits there.

The boost control issue is not something that will be easy to diagnose across the 'net. Especially if you have had it apart lots. It will be something weird.

Today I hooked up a 5psi source to the wastegate, and it moves just fine.  No idea why it was overboosting.  We checked the fuel pressure and it's a bit higher than it should be, which I've read happens sometimes when you go with a higher lph pump due to the extra fuel being returned to the tank, causing a bit of a pressure buildup.  We took some coilpacks off another RB25DET, swapped them on, and sure enough that was it.  Set the timing and now she runs perfectly!   Thanks for the help :)

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...