Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I’d like to know what’s needed to make the r33 gtr like the r32 gtr when it comes to making it switchable between rwd and awd.

ive heard r33 GTR’s are always RWD and they switch to awd when they start losing control.

i don’t have any running gear in it anyways so I’d like to know what I’d need to put. I have a broken r33 gtr gearbox but the transfer case is fine.

should I buy an r32 gtr front sump and diff and an r32 gearbox or what parts should I be using? 
 

TIA.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480522-gtr-r33-rwd-awd-toggle/
Share on other sites

The 32 and 33 gearboxes, fronts diff and transfer cases are all the same. The change is within the electronics and hydraulics. I've explained this all before so I'll be brief. Essentially the 32 has one transfer case solenoid which can be electrically disabled and the 33 has two solenoids, which one provides a constant small pressure preload on the transfer case.

On a 33 you have to depressurise this second "failsafe" solenoid to have no transfer case preload. If you searched in the driveline forum section you would've found this on how to do it:

 

  • Like 2

Thank you heaps for your help.

so the thing that people say about the r33 gtr being constant rwd unless it senses slip in the rear and then converting it to awd is just a myth? 
 

thanks again for the help I appreciate it

Not entirely that simple. The 33 and 34 GTR is essentially rwd like the 32 until it is told to actuate the transfer. There's only a 1 - 2% of torque transfer under normal conditions if that, as this second failsafe solenoid allows about 30psi to the transfer actuator just to preload it. Under a 50:50 torque split the pressure applied is upwards of 230psi.

The whole idea is that having this slight preload allows the torque transfer to be initiated much faster than having no preload like the 32.

  • Like 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...