Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, today i was trying to verify my base timing and ran into some issues. 

At idle with tps connected, it was running 15 deg from timing light.

I then unplugged the tps which is supposed to lock it to 15 deg. The revs went up and the engine was then pinging. Timing light showed no marks but i guess it was very advanced since it was pinging.

I then turned the cas to maximum full clockwise which is max retard and the pinging stopped but timing light shows 20 deg. Could not get it down to 15 deg.

I then put back the tps and the revs dropped to around 600? Rpm and no marks again on the crank so i assume it was now extra retarded.

I don't think ecu idle adjustment can take many degrees off to adjust the idle.

But anyway with the tps in i set it to 15 deg and it idles at 1000 and runs fine. However i worry that timing is off and during pulls the timing is actually very advanced and byebye engine.

Should i keep it like this or actually find a way to set timing to 15 deg with the tps disconnected?

To achieve that can i remove cas and install it again to get more adjustments so i can put it to 15?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481026-rb25det-neo-set-timing/
Share on other sites

What you describe really shouldn't be possible.

You can't pull the CAS and put it back at any other angle than that which it came off of, because there's only one install orientation. So no go there.

For your timing behaviour to be so weird, one would have to hypothesise that your exhaust cam is one tooth off, or something similar.

A satisfactory idle speed for a Neo is <650 rpm.

And I have seen ECUs that can't get the idle under control by IACV pull the timing back to nearly 0° timing. So there is really about -ve 15-20° of delta timing available for idle control and then possibly more on the other side too.

Wow, I'm very delighted to have your reply. I have read a lot of threads about this and seen your posts a lot. 

I think you had a post where you had a screenshot of the Nistune maps on idle adjustments and I vaguely remember seeing the maximum adjustment that the ECU can make to try to achieve the target idle is perhaps +/- 3? Didn't know they can pull or add that much delta. Also, is it possible to reset this learned advance/retard?

 

My iacv screw (black plastic) is worn and adjustments are very difficult so to use that to set to 650 RPM is not very easy. As well, as mentioned, with the TPS off max retard I can get is 20 deg which will pull the RPMs up given the same amount of air.

Workshop manual says put to iac/aac adjust. mode in Consult. What does that actually do? Put iac valve to base duty?

 

I have just ordered a consult cable and will read the ECU's timing and try to adjust CAS to the same. If it is not possible then I guess it's jumped a tooth and belt/pulley work time to align the cams to crank?

 

Thanks in advance.

Edited by joz

I have personally seen my car idling at 3° when the IACV was dirty and non-responsive. As reported by the ECU in Nistune.

 

1 hour ago, joz said:

Workshop manual says put to iac/aac adjust. mode in Consult. What does that actually do? Put iac valve to base duty?

I connect to my ECU with Nistune (because it is Nistuned) and you can set the target idle rpm directly, which is what you can do with a proper Consult device. I would not expect that you can set the idle speed with your typical Consult reading software on a PC. Might be able to with some, but that requires a ton more confidence on the part of the person releasing the software!

The IACV is essentially a stepper motor and how many "steps" the ECU is putting out is the requested opening. I think it is open loop, so if the IACV won't actually open (because dirty/broken) then I think the steps will just keep increasing until they hit the max. A realistic number for the output number of steps is something in the order of 50.

Setting the idle speed is a juggling act between making a physical adjustment on the screw on the IACV so that the ECU can run the stepper motor in the middle of its useful control range so that it can maintain the correct speed across the full range of load and temperature variations you can expect.

  • Thanks 1

Took took timing cover and put crank to TDC and marks on cams line up so no tooth skipping here.

Decided to try wiring a loop on spark plug #1 and putting the coil back on and taking the timing gun signal from there.

Initially showed the same as getting the signal from the blue loop in the back. Then gun decided to die and I could not go any further.

TPS off full retard on CAS is 20 deg.......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...