Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Morning All

Just wondering if i could get some assistance with getting my IAT sensor to work with my new adaptronic modular ECU (EMOD004). Its installed in an S2 R33 GTST RB25DET, fairly basic mods, top mount turbo and FFP etc etc

Ive tapped the sensor into the existing wiring for the AFM signal and ground like everyone does but still cant get a temperature reading through the ECU. I've relocated pin 27 to pin 37 (as requested by adaptronic customer support) for the signal and kept the AFM GND wire in its original location (pin 26).

image.png.8b3caf8e44b48fc0c07beb2e06554526.png

Any advice would be great!

Thanks!

 

I measured the voltage at the connection in the engine bay and with both wires coming off the sensor going to the afm signal and blue/white afm gnd wire, i got 0 V with ignition on but then i joined both afm grounds together to the ground wire on the sensor and it returned 4.3V...this made no difference to the temp. reading in the software though.

Yes, but first step is always check the functioning of the sensor and the wiring, before spending hours f**king about with software. Nothing worse than chasing a physical problem from inside the computer!

If you can see the same resistance at the ECU as you can at the sensor, then at least the sensor's wires are making it all the way to the ECU. Now the only question is how that sensor is supposed to be supplied with voltage. Can you show us the recommended wiring diagram?

Na fair call man, i agree. I also checked the delphi data sheet and with the resistance i got off the mulitmeter, atmospheric temp. should be between 10-15 degrees Celsius which checks out. 

I didn't use any wiring diagram as such, basically just the ECU pinout diagram that adaptronic supplied:
image.png.efe637b520908e4d781cc80fbff030e6.pngimage.png.21fdec7707dff720bfcb85a77087aeed.png

They recommend pin 36 for the IAT input but ive got the FICD solenoid input there and i want to retain my aircon, so i asked them and they said i can use pin 37 as an IAT input instead. Id be asking them for help but they take 2 days to reply to each email and theres no number i can call.
 

Yeah, I think you might need more than just that pinout.

The ECU has to be configured to look at that pin. Have you done that?

How exactly is the rest of the wiring for the IAT supposed to be? Is the other side just earthed? Or is the other side supposed to be powered?

And, did you know that Adaptronic was bought by Haltech? So support should be via Haltech these days.

Apologies for the delay, i've been mucking around with pins and settings all weekend and think i may have finally gotten the software to register a temp. reading.

It seems as though it was a grounding issue, i couldnt get a reading from pin 26 so i moved it to pin 30 and pulled out which i think it was the ECT ground. However, without the ECT ground connected the software still managed to register a coolant temp reading which i thought was strange.

What i'll do now is graft pin 26 to pin 30 or see if i can join the IAT ground wire to the ECT ground in the engine bay to prevent me hacking wires at the ecu connector.

I wasn't aware adaptronic was bought out by haltech, ill keep this in mind for future inquires, thanks for the heads up and appreciate the help!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you have a RB25DET NEO AWD motor, you will need this: https://www.hioctanedirect.com/ASR-RB26-RWD-Street-Comp-6.5L-Sump-Suit-R32/33/34-and-VL It is made for the AWD motor, but makes it fit a RWD setup and gives you a new pickup. Just one thing, the pickup sits quite forward, compared to a conventional RB25DET RWD motor. This may or may not have contributed to my previous AWD -> RWD shitting the bed at the track.
    • My car is also flex tuned. It's worth mentioning it (the LS1 ECU) has a 1D table for E85 addition and just uses the ethanol stoich part as the second point of reference. It also as a 3D timing map for Ethanol adjustment. You would think this isn't enough but it works pretty damn well. That said, I wouldn't want it in turbo application. It's like lifting non-natty, or taking meth. It gets you unrealistic results that break down more things going forward. If people used it to make the same amount of power they do on 98 then it'd be one thing. But people use it, crank it up to eleventy million PSI, it doesn't knock - but it pushes the point of failure to another, more expensive thing to break. Every time I see someone make 280kw on 98 and 350kw on E85 on the same equipment I just cry a bit and really wish they would just stay on 98 in that exact scenario. It's bad for you. 
    • This is kind of what I was thinking but the temp sender wire and the two pressure switch wires run through the starter subharnes and I eliminated the two pressure switch wires completely.  @GTSBoy I have a can gauge with unusually bright warnings should the oil pressure fall so the factory light isn't needed. I need to dig out my wiring diagram and see if I can sort this out.
    • It's a valid point. And it is doable with the Nistune. But I'm not inclined to flex it the way Nistune does - certainly not on a Neo ECU. They're already pernickety enough to tune just one one fuel. And of course, I'm not that interested in putting in a Link or similar, on a daily. With the stock ECU, stock looking turbo, etc etc, I still stand a chance of surviving a run-in with the plod. Last time it went over the pits (which was for the transplant, for because of a run-in with the plod), the Nistuned ECU did not even raise an eyebrow. They want to see a stock ECU running the engine, and they are happy to see it do so without the check engine light** on. Never mind that the Nistune is necessary to make the stock ECU work in a different chassis without ABS, TCS, etc. **And they actually provoke the CEL to come on by disconnecting the AFM, to prove that the globe hasn't been pulled!
    • This is why you flex fuel it...
×
×
  • Create New...