Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

After a bit of information to help me with my GTR searches. I am looking at a R34 in bayside blue (TV2) with a VIN that is listed on GTR-registry as a series 2 base model gtr (production year 2000). The car does have the series 2 interior however the engine bay is not body colour, it is a darker colour.

Could anyone else on this forum who has a series 2 in bayside confirm their engine colour as being bayside blue or a darker blue. Just confused as I have up until this point believed that only the series 1 had the darker engine bays (depending on body colour) and series 2 had body colour engine bays.

The car I am looking at is appears to be clean and has records but this is bugging me. Also is there anything else I could look towards which would be a give away?

Thanks!

Edited by Jip
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481118-bnr34-series-2-engine-bay-colour/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Series1 Bayside Blue and Midnight Purple cars had black engine bays. Series 2 was body colour. 

Other colours were body colour though, my white BNR34 Vspec came with a white engine bay. Although the paint is matt and dull.

Series 1 will have blue build plate, Series 2 will have silver build plate, unless it's a Nur of course.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
×
×
  • Create New...