Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How's it going, guys? First post here, but I've used this site countless times as a source of great information on this chassis.

I've recently purchased an ENR34 25GT Four coupe and am awaiting transport for it to show up in person. As I wait, I've begun to assemble quite a few parts, including suspension bits. I'm wanting to change the rear knuckles to an alloy type that will accept the larger GTR-sized rear hubs to match the Z33 diff change. I'll preface the information below by saying that I've used Nissan EPC Data and Amayama's pages to determine as much backwards compatibility as I can.

I purchased a pair of alloy rear knuckles from a '96 Infiniti Q45 (G50). It shares the part number with the Z32. In looking at photos, I can't find a difference between these and the R32 parts, or even the R33/R34 parts. I've read that the width of the rear lower shock mount is 40mm at the metal sleeve on the older ones vs. 50mm of the R33/R34 variants. Honestly, the R33/R34 rear lower shock mounts don't really seem any wider from the pictures. 

Can anyone lay out what the differences might be between the multiple allow knuckles? I'm guessing a HICAS vs. non-HICAS knuckle are going to have different numbers despite the various bushings or joints that are different being removable.

In summary, what will prevent me from taking these Q45/Z32 rear alloy uprights and using them on my ENR34 with R34 GTR-style coilover bottoms? Thanks for the help! I'll upload pictures in a little while of the uprights I have, if that helps.

 

the ball joint taper is different. There is no need to change the knuckle to run the gtr hubs, I'v run run them on all my s chassis' with no issues.
I've got a set here and will get some pictures & measurements to show the difference

That's the first I've heard of the ball joint taper being different. And I'd like to pose a follow-up question, as the part numbers would seem to indicate a different story. On aluminum knuckles, all seem to use the same Nissan part number (40173-33P00), and that adapter/spacer/bush fits perfectly into the aluminum knuckle.

Here are the compatible chassis for that taper from Amayama https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/4017333p00

Here is that taper bushing fitting into the knuckle that I have (which doesn't really prove anything about the inside taper size or pitch, I'll admit) spacer.png

spacer.png

 

 

And here are a few more to show the appearance and some dimensions of the Q45 rear upright.

 

spacer.png

spacer.png

 

 

Shock Mounting Boss

 

spacer.pngspacer.png

 

 

Bearing Bore Large Dimension

 

spacer.png

 

 

Bearing Bore Smaller Dimension (Inner)

 

spacer.png

Edited by JarrettL

Talked to a US retailer that had new OEM R34 GTT/GTR knuckles on hand and his caliper measurement (through plastic packaging) comes out to the same as the knuckles I have. So I guess I'm going to assume SuperPro rear lower shock mounts for an R34 GTT/GTR will fit these fine and allow me to run R34 coilovers all around.

  • 4 months later...

Hey Jarrett, how'd you go with these? I'm in in the middle of doing this swap to my ER34 using R34GTR/GTT knuckles too. 

That ball joint spacer bush, is not in the knuckles I have, is that a standard part?

Edit: Found the part I need. It's: https://frsport.com/nissan-40173-33p00-genuine-oem-lower-ball-joint-tapered-seat-nissan-z32-300zx-89-93?gclid=CjwKCAiAp4KCBhB6EiwAxRxbpOACc7Axqake_emVHYEYGj0CFEixIjF5ZrN6P683va9rFDvts4IRsxoCr0UQAvD_BwE

Cheers 👍

Edited by OldMateDavey

Sorry Dave, I didn't have alerts turned on!

Glad you found the tapered seat. And yes, it's a standard part across multiple generations. Even the V36 Skyline (G35 sedan here in the US) I pulled a rear differential from used these at the rear knuckles. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, I suppose.

And thanks for the pictures of the crush sleeve dimensions. I imagine the thickness of the aluminum surrounding that bushing on yours and mine are the same and that they each take the same bushings. I purchased some BNR34 SuperPros, but just haven't gotten around to installing them yet.

58 minutes ago, JarrettL said:

Sorry Dave, I didn't have alerts turned on!

Glad you found the tapered seat. And yes, it's a standard part across multiple generations. Even the V36 Skyline (G35 sedan here in the US) I pulled a rear differential from used these at the rear knuckles. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, I suppose.

And thanks for the pictures of the crush sleeve dimensions. I imagine the thickness of the aluminum surrounding that bushing on yours and mine are the same and that they each take the same bushings. I purchased some BNR34 SuperPros, but just haven't gotten around to installing them yet.

Hey Jarrett, 

All good mate, ended up ordering them new through Kudos Motorsports here in Aus for $25ea.

The lower shock mount bush OD on these R34 knuckles are larger than Z32/R32 GTR, see below comparison photo between my R34 knuckle and Z32/R32 complete replacement spherical bearing bush from GKTech. I incorrectly ordered this spherical replacement as I originally thought that these were all the same. I've since decided to not press the old bush out in this instance and re-use it. 

I would do a quick double check on your Super Pro bushes compared to your knuckle/knuckle bushes (if you still have them). Let us know what you find.

IMG_9171.jpg

Well, it seems you are correct. My SuperPros have an OD of just over 54mm. The bushing also measured 29mm wide, whereas the boss pictured above is 32mm, but I imagine there's not much to be gleaned from that.

Maybe it's time to look for some R34 GTT/GTR rear knuckles.

Cheers for the input so far!

Not a problem mate.

I doubt there would be much to be gained from this particular bushing, compared to Z32/R32 GTR in regard to geometry.  So, searching specifically for these R34 knuckles may be a waste of time when you already have a good pair. Push in a set of SuperPro Z32/R32 bushes and be done with it 👌.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...