Jump to content
SAU Community

identify a cross-member

phelbas

By phelbas,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

phelbas Enthusiast

phelbas

Posted
Posted

unfortunately not in picture there is a flattish cross member just forward of this picture (just above the top of it), the bottom of the radiator is mounted to it. From the nose of the car it is the first solid cross member one can see

Mine is dented I suspect from some id**t using a trolley jack.

What is the name or part number of this cross member so I can look it up?

thanks

940ADE1B-396F-4CE2-BB15-C663446459DA.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481519-identify-a-cross-member/
Share on other sites
phelbas Enthusiast

phelbas

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

The lower rail can probably be quite satisfactorily straightened in situ.

yeah it could be bent back if its even lifted but the visible underside denting and marks are bothering me. I am at the stage of identifying and replacing non oem bolts and plastic trim fasteners, so this is sort of a blot.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
52 minutes ago, phelbas said:

Ah cool, Wasn't aware they can do that kind of work. Of course they can if they can remove hail damage!

Well, actually, removing hail damage is probably a bit different. Depending on how badly dented/bent the lower rail is, it might be straightenable by spot welding on rivets and pulling on them with a slide hammer, and other more direct means of applying force. But if it's quite bad, the answer would probably be to slice out the bottom steel work, re-make it out of sheet with the same features in it (folds/ribs/pressings/etc for strength, holes for drainage, screw holes for fitting the undertray and so on) and just welding it back in. Classic body building metal work. Same as they would do for badly dildo'd chassis rails.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...