Jump to content
SAU Community

rb25det with 26 internals first start mapping

tidi0x

By tidi0x,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

tidi0x Rookie

tidi0x

Posted
Posted

I am currently building my S2 25det from my R33 with a 26 crank, nitto I beams, and 26 CP pistons. 

I have a G4x PNP which I intend on using with a brand new loom from wiring specialties with r35 coils. However when it comes time to do first start since pulled the car down from bone stock I want to drop the built engine in the car as stock for first start because I know those parts WORK and I do not have to diagnose anything with new ecu, loom, turbo, intake etc.... 

I have no issue running the G4x on first start, but I do not know which base map to use be it the 25 or the 26 map, so my second option (And somewhat preferred) is the stock ecu, but I am concerned because the stroke is longer technically the ignition would be slightly retarted and I do not want to risk knock or detonation; Obviously I do not intend to beat on it, but I want to put light driving load accel and decel on the car to set the rings. After first start and drive, I will tear it down and run my turbo, intake mani, G4X and take it to my tuner to get the tune.  

Am I safe to run stock ecu for first run and drive?

Also can someone please validate that for a 25 with 26 internals I need to run 26 Main bearings.... I have found two threads that talk about it with no SOLID answer. 

robbo_rb180 Grand Master

robbo_rb180

Posted
Posted

use the 25 base map if a plugin as the inputs/outputs will be different but should always confirm all settings before first start. The Link ignition base map is fine for first start.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Returning after a long time!

      By PranK · Posted

      Nah its a server spammer thing  Although, now that I manually approve all the accounts I can probably loosen up some of the restrictions.  
    • CEF33Y
      Report that engine failure

      By CEF33Y · Posted

      Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
    • GTSBoy
      Returning after a long time!

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Done
    • Shizu
      Returning after a long time!

      By Shizu · Posted

      Thanks buddy. I thought it was a server storage thing. 🤣
    • TheBushKangaroo
      Hello fellow enthusiasts

      By TheBushKangaroo · Posted

      Perfect! Thanks for this, both look like great options!
×
×
  • Create New...