Jump to content
SAU Community

Power steering leak

IM-32-FK

By IM-32-FK,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

IM-32-FK Mentor

IM-32-FK

Posted
Posted

I changed the suction and return hoses on the power steering tank and changed the fluid to go with it but I’m still having leaking issues. It’s leaking very faintly all it does is just cover the resovoir in a thin film of oil. It seems to be coming from where the two parts of the tank connect, but it could be the cap itself.

I have no rubber rings of gaskets on cap, does anybody know exactly where it should go and what sizes? And from the part that connects the two parts of the reservoir , how did you reseal that part?

A3BEAF4A-2C72-4C0D-B8AF-73A3AEA661DB.jpeg

9CD8DC57-958B-4C0F-8B94-21CB47AA4121.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482034-power-steering-leak/
Share on other sites
IM-32-FK Mentor

IM-32-FK

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
26 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

The lid gasket would pretty clearly go in the part of the lid that contacts the top edge of the reserviour......

I put a o ring around the part I marked yellow. Or should I put one around the front part marked red?

 

9FE23732-3115-430A-A775-2D8AB5CE43C0.jpeg

Edited by IM-32-FK
Rusty Nuts Experienced

Rusty Nuts

Posted
Posted (edited)

It is more likely caused by no or low vacuum to the power steering pump causing excessive foaming of the ATF. There is no seal in them originally because that three pipe arrangement in the cap is actually a labyrinth intended to increase the air volume above ATF. You should have a vacuum line from after the MAF to the PS pump and a line to the carbon canister.

Edited by Rusty Nuts
IM-32-FK Mentor

IM-32-FK

Posted
  • Author
Posted
11 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

It is more likely caused by no or low vacuum to the power steering pump causing excessive foaming of the ATF. There is no seal in them originally because that three pipe arrangement in the cap is actually a labyrinth intended to increase the air volume above ATF. You should have a vacuum line from after the MAF to the PS pump and a line to the carbon canister.

I know exactly what your talking about. It’s these vacuum hoses. Are you telling me their is low vacuum on them? Like they are blocked or something?

FE059F78-1B02-485D-B7A7-B57517848926.jpeg

429E6250-4F03-4B2A-9CF1-22B806015A9C.jpeg

Rusty Nuts Experienced

Rusty Nuts

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yes thats them, one side should go to carbon canister. They should be original size hoses to work correctly, and your canister system must be working correctly (ie no leaks)

Edited by Rusty Nuts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ARB26
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By ARB26 · Posted

      So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • MBS206
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • GTSBoy
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • GTSBoy
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...