Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's been 10 years with my RS4 series 1. The head gasket had catastrophic failure when under boost a while back, went choo choo train emitting a large white cloud out the back. Temp quite normal, no recovery bottle warning signs leading up to event apart from developing rough idle a few days before. I pulled off to side of road and could see temp gauge sneaking up, switched off & assessed situation. Most telling thing was green coolant running from exhaust. That was a tow truck ride home.

It's been in the shed a while now as I go my glacial pace of sorting it out. I've got the head off & cleaned off gasket surfaces. I put a straight edge on & checked with feeler gauges to find I have a bend to deal with.

Odd really as it's been 5 years since I changed out it's previous dodgy radiator. In that time before it's temps would elevate but not to severity. Although there was this time pulling a trailer and all was OK until I switched off, recovery bottle started to blow steam & I restarted to get circulation going again and settle temp down. I suppose with a 0.9 bar rad cap it'd have seen about 120 degrees to make steam.  

Gasket failure was on the exhaust side of No 6 cyl. I see my bend on the head viewing it with deck facing up as the head is convex across it's length. The straight edge rocks end to end and contacts the middle of surface. Would be approx 0.1mm per end clearance.

The gasket failed on the steel compression ring and continued on to rupture water & oil gallery sealing.

My question is do these things tend to warp up on the ends of head (imaging it's still face down on block)?  Most head warps I've seen usually go up in the middle. What I'm seeing on the RB would seem to fit as it's known the end cylinder gets the most heat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482200-rb25det-head-bend/
Share on other sites

I found the head bolts between 5 & 6 yielded easier than all the others when unbolting. No 5 cyl also showing signs of gasket distress towards those studs too. I imagine when it gets hotter than normal expansion occurs in head causing stud stretch & gasket compression.

Wondered what other peoples experience of RB head warp is.

New development, my straight edge was bad. Rechecked with a better grade one. Now within 0.05mm (0.002") and any of that is in the middle - the more conventional style warp. Good to go again and no trip to machinist required.

Oh I've got Nissan factory gasket and new studs. And new exhaust studs. Should be good for it's stock 180kw. This thing is standard right down to original wheels and the tape deck - which died a long time back.

Just the sweet sound of inline RB and the road.

  • Like 1
  • 7 months later...

Well that took a while, part time in weekends only when there was time.

Just a heads up, got this thing up & running, great, no leaks etc..

Come road test time and the dreaded blue/white cloud out exhaust came after about 2kms. told myself not to panic, probably just something burning off exhaust. Well it got worse and I turned for home at 4km, got a little better. Got to my gateway, hopped out & looked at exhaust, steaming and wet.

 

Refusing to accept I could get it that wrong, but evidence out exhaust looking bad. I figured it had to be the large muffler at the back sloshing with coolant all this time parked in shed.

 

luckily I was right, second run all systems normal, no steam. Glad I didn't tear it down again only to find nothing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you're running a 2.8 and my 2.5 is not really like for like, I suspect there could be a bit more timing you could give it. What is the kW yield per degree you're putting through it? Here's my E85 map to give you an idea, where it was I could still get another 3~4kW per degree thrown at it.  
    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
×
×
  • Create New...