Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently finished the complete ground up rebuild on my r34 gtr. After driving the car for few kilometers their is a ticking sound from the back of the car, when braking is apply. 

the mechanic suspect my diff is faulty. the sound will only be heard during braking. anybody experience this before. 

cheers 

Jw 

Normally what someone would describe as a "ticking sound from the rear" is more likely to be related to the rear brakes - something like a rock caught between the disc/caliper/guard area, but if a mechanic has looked at it hopefully that is what they checked first.

is there oil in the diff? 

normally a diff problem would be a clunk or whir/whine 

 

Normally what someone would describe as a "ticking sound from the rear" is more likely to be related to the rear brakes - something like a rock caught between the disc/caliper/guard area, but if a mechanic has looked at it hopefully that is what they checked first.

is there oil in the diff? 

normally a diff problem would be a clunk or whir/whine 

we did check the brakes as the first suspect, I'm using a r35 brake calipers front and rear. after further investigation it seem that the brake is find. the diff is completely dry. the 4wd lights is on right now because of the tps issue using a single throttle body from the cpc performance performance. could this be the problem? I'm getting the light fixed the withe haltech tps attesa adapter module 

Edited by euro_king

when you say the diff is completely dry, you mean on the outside, right? I was asking about internal fluid level, the filler is on the passenger side of the diff, generally half obscured by the exhaust.

when you mention the 4wd error light is on, it is possible the ticking is the attessa pump relay turning on and off if your nitrogen cannister has insufficient pressure; however this should happen reasonably regularly even at idle when not moving, not just when you are braking.

it is pretty much impossible to guess where the issue could be after a brief text description. If you can catch audio of the sound occurring that may help a lot, but frankly if a competent mechanic can't diagnose with the car in front of them it is pretty unlikely anyone can help you over the web.

  • Like 1
 

drilled and using r35 calipers front and rear 

Almost certainly the noise is coming from the rotor face.

Anyone how can afford R35 calipes can afford to hang a GoPro or similar camera on their suspension with the microphone pointed at the brakes. Diagnosis techniques for this kind of thing have been made infinitely more accessible in the last 10 years.

But I would put money on it being the brakes and being a problem.

 

Almost certainly the noise is coming from the rotor face.

Anyone who can afford R35 calipers can afford to hang a GoPro or similar camera on their suspension with the microphone pointed at the brakes. Diagnosis techniques for this kind of thing have been made infinitely more accessible in the last 10 years.

But I would put money on it being the brakes and being a problem.

Ficksed mah useless speeliing/typing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...