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What's your HICAS situation? You can't use R33 pumps on R32s if you still need to pump fluid around the rear steer circuit.

If you have deactivated it, then going to a single stage pump means you can just pis off all the rear steer stuff.

Sadly, I don't know if the R33 pumps fall onto the RB20 or if you need to futz with the mountings and/or pulley. I am reasonably sure though, that the question has been asked and discussed on here before, so have a search.

Do you know why it died? generally either low oil or belt too tight, best to know so the replacement doesn't go the same way. Looks likely that the rear stage is still connected so RB25 one won't do.

Where are you (location on your profile would help)? I'm pretty sure I have a gtst spare because a second handy I picked up was labelled R32, but the rb26 and rb20 pumps are not mounted the same.

sorry, I should add that rebuilding them is pretty simple if you can source the seal kits. The bearing (the bit that failed) will have the number written on it, it's a generic part.

On 6/21/2022 at 11:12 PM, GTSBoy said:

What's your HICAS situation? You can't use R33 pumps on R32s if you still need to pump fluid around the rear steer circuit.

If you have deactivated it, then going to a single stage pump means you can just pis off all the rear steer stuff.

Sadly, I don't know if the R33 pumps fall onto the RB20 or if you need to futz with the mountings and/or pulley. I am reasonably sure though, that the question has been asked and discussed on here before, so have a search.

Previous owner said they disabled the hicas? Not totally sure if they did or did not

On 6/22/2022 at 2:07 AM, Duncan said:

Do you know why it died? generally either low oil or belt too tight, best to know so the replacement doesn't go the same way. Looks likely that the rear stage is still connected so RB25 one won't do.

Where are you (location on your profile would help)? I'm pretty sure I have a gtst spare because a second handy I picked up was labelled R32, but the rb26 and rb20 pumps are not mounted the same.

My guess is low oil? I recall a week or so starting the car and it kinda made that rattle noise and then when I went to drive out of the garage it was like the passenger front tire was frozen. Had to give it good amount of throttle to move it out of the garage and it even made a sound like I had seperated two pieces of steel. 

Right, so you need to find and fix the oil leak as well in that case.

I can't be sure from the video, but it looks like you still have 2 lines going to the PS pump, so you need a 32 style one nor 33 or later. A pic of the top rear of the pump would confirm; you can have hicas removed but still have both stages in place depending how it was done.

BTW sounds like you should get a mechanic to fix this if you are not confident with everything required

On 6/22/2022 at 1:49 PM, Duncan said:

Right, so you need to find and fix the oil leak as well in that case.

I can't be sure from the video, but it looks like you still have 2 lines going to the PS pump, so you need a 32 style one nor 33 or later. A pic of the top rear of the pump would confirm; you can have hicas removed but still have both stages in place depending how it was done.

BTW sounds like you should get a mechanic to fix this if you are not confident with everything required

Ive worked on many cars and their power steering but never one with hicas before. On my garage floor there seems to be some small amount of oil but that is more so in the middle/drivers side of the undercarriage. Definitely not the color of ps fluid. 

OK great news. In that case the 32 style pump has 2 pressure stages and therefore 2 pressure outlets as well as the low pressure in from the reservoir. When HICAS is removed it could either be by removing the second stage of the pump and plugging it up, or retaining the second stage to feed something like a PS cooler. You need to work out if you are using both stages before you can decide if you need a 32 or 33/34 pump.

Rebuilding the PS pump with a new bearing is pretty straightforward and likely to be cheaper than replacing the pump, particularly as you may only need to replace the bearing if you are sure the pump itself is not leaking.

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