Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm chasing an issue where my climate control doesn't turn off even after hitting the off button.  Can't tell if these wiring joins are factory or the harness has been modified.  I don't think they would crimp a white/red wire to a black wire.  The other wires appear to be the same color.  There was blue electrical tape covering the crimped connections.

I have already replaced the Blower Amp with a brand new part and there was no change.

IMG_1892.JPG

IMG_1893.JPG

IMG_1894.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484170-air-conditioner-sub-harness-r32/
Share on other sites

Without having checked the wiring diagram, visually they all look like factory style crimps. They use brass joiners and a small piece of electrical tape from factory

Have you seen the (readable) diagrams that GTSBoy posted up?

I did.  Great wealth of knowledge on here.  Haven't seen the brass joiners before so I wasn't sure. 

I'm going to do the diagnostic tests to narrow down my problem.  Could be the blower motor or the climate control unit itself.  The blower motor runs even if I disconnect the hi relay.  I will posts the results of the tests when I complete them.

Think you are right about the loom.  I was able to choose the fan speeds and get the climate control unit to turn off just once.  Moved the unit a little bit and the blower won't turn off again.  Below are the results of the blower motor system diagnostic.

Step 1:  When testing Hi-relay pin 3, the voltage is below 12.  Multimeter reading 5V. (Manual indicates faulty harness or faulty blower motor)

Blower Motor Step 1.png

Step 2: Testing fan control amp pin 4 in self diagnostic mode.  Standard voltage for digital display values 41 - 46 should be 1 to 3 V.  My reading for display value 41 and 42 is showing 0V.  43 to 46 are normal. (Manual indicates faulty harness or faulty automatic amplifer)

Blower Motor Step 2.png

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...