Jump to content
SAU Community

RB25DET S2 to R34(NA GT manual trans)


Recommended Posts

Hi guys...quick question.

Can i fit the RB25DET S2 from R33 GTS-T to my R34 GT? it is completely stock.
I know trans is weak but it should at least mate or?
And what about everything else?

I just asking cuz someone selling their S2 engine for 4500k AUD which is great price considering it is in my country and i dont need to pay extremely high postage.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

59 minutes ago, Kapr said:

Can i fit the RB25DET S2 from R33 GTS-T to my R34 GT? it is completely stock

Yes.

59 minutes ago, Kapr said:

I know trans is weak but it should at least mate or?

Yes, it will mate.

But, this is not a trivial swap. You will need to sort out ECU and engine wiring, as they are not simply plug and play. You will need a fuel pump, stronger clutch, intercooler and plumbing.

You really should upgrade the brakes.

By the way - this question has been asked on here about 1000 times before.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the answer.
I was looking for question but found only swap to RB25DET NEO.

The guy selling says it has everything. Wiring and ECU and i already have breakes from R34 GTT.
Stronger clutch should be "easy" to find/buy...fuel pump too and intercooler-plumbing is already on the engine.(plumbing would be new and designed to fit)

Is there anything else i would need or to look for?

I presume that if i find the NEO engine things will be the same for the swap?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Kapr said:

I presume that if i find the NEO engine things will be the same for the swap?

No. You will have NO option but to Nistune the ECU or use an aftermarket ECu to run the Neo because it will have a shit fit over the absence of the TCS CU.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So for the RB25DET from R33 i do not need Nistune the ECU but for the NEO i do?
The guy who sells the NEO engine says he is doing Nistune too so it will be easier...but of course much more expensive.

I just looking for options and what i can/cant do in here.
So thank you for all the info 🙂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

EDIT(cant edit the previous post).

And something little bit different.
What about RB25DE NEO(non Turbo)? In case my engine will "blow" or something happens where it will not reasonable to repair?
This engine should be ok to fit? I think it has the same trans.

From your information and everything a read so far about Turbo/Swap...it is/will be waste of money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Kapr said:

So for the RB25DET from R33 i do not need Nistune the ECU but for the NEO i do?
The guy who sells the NEO engine says he is doing Nistune too so it will be easier...but of course much more expensive.

I just looking for options and what i can/cant do in here.
So thank you for all the info 🙂

Not only would you not have to Nistune the ECU, but you actually cannot. The R33 ECU is different to all the others and won't take a daughterboard.

The R33 does not have TCS and so doesn't care if transplanted into a chassis without it. The R34 ECU expects TCS.

There is one option there though, which is to get a Neo from a Stagea, as they did not have TCS either. But, I would be at least Nistuning the ECU so you can tune the bloody thing anyway, so a Stagea motor is not really a solution to a problem that needs solving by any other means than Nistuning anyway.

12 hours ago, Kapr said:

And something little bit different.
What about RB25DE NEO(non Turbo)? In case my engine will "blow" or something happens where it will not reasonable to repair?
This engine should be ok to fit? I think it has the same trans.

I'm not sure what you're asking here. Are you asking if you can transplant the exact same engine that you already have? The R34 GT has an RB25DE Neo already.

There is no particular reason for your existing engine to "blow". They are tough and understressed.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok so that is that on the R33 engine. The guy says he has ECU and everything...it is cheaper and should be ok engine.
One thing i read(i think) that clutch is different on R33? I know i will need a new one anyway. Fuel pump is ok my needs to go out anyway.
Of course i would get an aftermarket ECU for tunning.
And maybe the worst part...need to ask either my mechanic or someone here if he can do this and mainly do this legally.
More power and anything is cool but no way iam gonna be driving without all ok on legall side.

I have the RB20DE NEO...not the 25 :-) 
But if iam gonna swap engine anyway and if i have the money...it is kinda nonsense to buy NA to replace NA.

 

EDIT: seems i miss the Stagea part. Yeah the other guy who is selling the RB25DET NEO is indeed selling Stagea engines.
 

Edited by Kapr
Link to comment
Share on other sites

54 minutes ago, Kapr said:

clutch is different on R33

No. The clutch is different on the NEO DET. It's a pull clutch, whereas everything else (except R33/4 GTRs) is push. Your existing box and the 33 turbo box should both be push.

But it's not as if it matters. Just use a clutch to suit whatever box you end up using.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So in recap if i buy that GTS-T engine(S2) with ECU and wire harness(guy says it is complete engine)
Intercooler too.
I can swap that with "no" problems?
I know...new clutch and pump.

Sry i know i maybe asking like a dumb person but iam trying to gather as much and clear information cuz i dont think anybody knows about this to much in here.
And i dont want to end with engine swap half way...so iam trying to eliminate all the "problems" before 😞
But many thanks for all the info!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/5/2023 at 11:52 AM, GTSBoy said:

But, this is not a trivial swap. You will need to sort out ECU and engine wiring, as they are not simply plug and play.

I have quoted myself. It is not plug and play. You will have to integrate the looms. Different cars, different wires doing different things. All in the engine bay.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Slap a 460L into the car, send its mum.  
    • So last night pulling away from the lights, I lost power for about 1 second. Bit weird, but I kept driving... 5 minutes later the pump completely dies. When I tried to start the car, the pump won't even prime.  I left the car for about an hour, tried to start it and it all appeared fine. Pump primed, car started, got the fuel pressure I should have.... Start driving home, 5 minutes later it dies again. I'm stuck in a shit spot this time going up hill with a car right behind me, so I just let the car continue to turn over while praying to the fuel pump gods. After about 2 minutes of turning the engine over, the fuel pump came back to life and I got home (only about another 5 min away).  So I've been digging around online, it seems like the 525 fuel pumps really don't like to be run at 100% all the time. I've found quite a few examples online of people killing their Walbro 525 pumps within about a year of usage when they are run without PWM.  So, my pump is an Aeroflow 525 (AF49-1057) and I've been running it at 100% without PWM. I'm thinking the Aeroflow 525 didn't like being run at 100% and has burnt itself up.  I really am sick of dealing with fuel pump issues, my current thoughts are -  1. Use a Walbro 450 and run it without PWM. It seems like these pumps hold up pretty well to being run at 100% all the time. I only make about 350kw and can't see me making any more power any time soon so this is probably a fine option.  2. Get a Walbro 525, run it with PWM. I know doing this will annoy me as I feel like with only 350kw, its extra expense that I don't "need" and I'll be thinking the whole time while setting it up that I should have gone with option 1. I know I'll be happy with this option when its setup and running, its only the initial setup frustration and cost as an issue.  3. Get a Walbro BKS1001 brushless pump. This is the fu*k it I'm already going PWM, might as well go full retard. This option just seems better in every way, with the only downside being cost. But I don't know much about this pump so I could be wrong.  Happy to get everyone's thoughts before I go digging around in the fuel tank again. 
    • Doing it this weekend. For sure this time. Thank you forum gods.  And im running map sensor now with the haltech. Still have the AFMs attached to the mushroom dome shaped air filter things
    • Actually, it is probably pretty legit. I mean, it's still woke feminazi bullshit academia, but you would have to agree that it is very likely that there would be a correlation between wanting a loud exhaust and scoring at the unpleasant end of the scales for dark triad personality traits. The fact that they found it didn't correlate with narcissism and only with psychopathy and sadism definitely shows that the loud exhaust thing is more of a "f**k you" than a "look at me", and I reckon that rings pretty close to most of the dickheads who take it to the extreme. Remember, this is correlation with tendency to be closer to one end of a personality trait scale than the other end. Of course someone who is at the literal opposite end of the psychopathy scale is going to be so considerate of others that they wouldn't even think about wanting to upset anyone with a loud exhaust. So the finding isn't that "you are a psychopath". Just that you score more towards that end of the scale than someone who doesn't like loud exhausts (on average, not necessarily even for specific individuals).
    • Blitz ER34 at some point hopefully, should be allowed in Gr3 if they do.
×
×
  • Create New...