Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All,

Currently getting a radiator w/ shroud and 16" brushless fan fab'd up. I will be using the sensor to switch on the fan. I will be using a stock thermostat(76.9c) with a 175-195f sensor switch.

I planned on getting the sensor thread bung welded to the lower half of the radiator near the outlet hose (mimicking the AC fan stock sensor switch location)

However, I've read much on that the switch needs to be mounted near the hottest point which would be near the upper hose.

Some of what I've read also states that it needs to be close to the thermostat. Most of that info is non-RB specific as some motors thermostat is located on the upper hose pipe.

Should the switch be close to the coolant temp sensor for thermostat??

Whats optimal when it comes to a RB?

Personally I would use your ECU to control the fan, the OEM water temp sensor on the outlet from the plenum would be the best spot to sample water temperature.

If you use a SSR or an OEM fan controller (from another car)you could even duty cycle your fan so it gently ramps in as water temperature increases and say goes from 30% duty at 75°C and to 100% by 85°C as an example. Far more sophisticated and superior than an on/off thermo switch.

Makes everything a bit more premium.

 

  • Like 1
3 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Personally I would use your ECU to control the fan, the OEM water temp sensor on the outlet from the plenum would be the best spot to sample water temperature.

If you use a SSR or an OEM fan controller (from another car)you could even duty cycle your fan so it gently ramps in as water temperature increases and say goes from 30% duty at 75°C and to 100% by 85°C as an example. Far more sophisticated and superior than an on/off thermo switch.

Makes everything a bit more premium.

 

I thought about just doing the ECU route. With the Spal Brushless tech, the fan is basically variable speed on its own with the switch (low speed @175F /max @195F).

I also thought about getting one of the radiator hose sensor provisions to mount the switch, since it seems the upper is deemed the most optimal location.

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Nice!

If that's the case, just install that sensor on plenum outlet. 

You're sampling water that is being expelled out from the motor, you would assume it's the best location.

  • Like 1
6 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Nice!

If that's the case, just install that sensor on plenum outlet. 

You're sampling water that is being expelled out from the motor, you would assume it's the best location.

Thanks!

The sensor is 3/8 so i may not exactly get it on the plenum but its def going up top! I just found one of those hose adapter in 3/8 on the ebay.

I'll just plug the bung that they welded on the bottom and delete the OEM harness for the than AC fan sensor switch. The new fan is gonna do the job.

  • Like 1

If it were me, I'd just build a controller on an Arduino. Fit it with a little trim pot or two, put it in a sealed box, and use the sensor location in the rad tank. The trim pots would allow the on and off points to be adjusted, rather than relying on hard switching points. The logic in the controller could be as sophisticated or as simple as you like. You could even have extra RTDs or TCs looking at external air T, engine bay T, etc, to inform how hard to run the fan.

I'd see it as an opportunity to experiment with programming some fuzzy logic. Might turn out to be complete overkill, but good fun.

But, if you have the capacity to run it from the ECU, almost any other option is verging on silly. No extra sensors required, all sorts of additional logic available at the twitch of a mouse, etc.

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...