Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I finally mustered the willpower to take apart the door on the driver side to figure out why it was rattling in there and also why my door locks can only be unlocked with the key but not locked from the outside. Now with the door card removed and the actuator arm unhooked from the door lock barrel I see that if I turn the lever it acts on the lock and unlock function works in both directions.

 Any advice for figuring out why my door locks are unhappy to lock but are seemingly fine with unlocking?

The rattle suggests you need to follow all the links. It's a complicated mess between the inner handle, the solenoid and the key barrel. There are little plastic clips that hold various of these together at numerous points. Loss of one can make it impossible for one rod to properly move the other.

22 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

The rattle suggests you need to follow all the links. It's a complicated mess between the inner handle, the solenoid and the key barrel. There are little plastic clips that hold various of these together at numerous points. Loss of one can make it impossible for one rod to properly move the other.

I figured it out. It was actually comical. After pulling out the cylinder I realized it turns both ways. When I put it back in suddenly it was fouling on something. Looked carefully and realized the lock cylinder arm was facing the wrong direction. Checked the cylinder on the driver side and realized it has an L on the arm. Pulled off the passenger side door card and removed the lock cylinder and put the “driver side” lock cylinder into the passenger side door. Now it works in both directions. 
 

So anyone with a similar issue where the key can only unlock the door but you have to lock it from the inside should check first that their lock cylinders weren’t mistakenly swapped at some point. If the lock cylinder arm is facing the front of the car instead of towards the trunk this is the warning sign. 

  • Like 1
5 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Hehe. Thread left turn as usual.

What was rattling?

Loose bolt that adjusts the unlock/lock rods. After futzing with the adjustments to try and get it to the “right position” it shouldn’t rattle anymore. Like any project with this car that I expect to only take a day though this has immediately turned into a week or longer because the factory vapor barrier is ripped up and some clips are missing so I want to fix all of that and get it absolutely perfect before putting it back together. Of course between mail ordering parts and the right sealant for the vapor barrier only being sold by mail it’s going to be a solid 5 days before any of that appears. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...