Jump to content
SAU Community

greedy plenums

RBVS

By RBVS,
in Japan

 Share

Recommended Posts

Rezz Grand Master

Rezz

Posted
Posted

SmItleR, Paragon... you didn't answer his question.

The Greddy (Goo-red-ee :P) intake plenum is a fairly popular conversion in Japan. I wouldn't say that *everyone* considers it, for example, a 400ps ECR33 has the Greddy plenum, yet a 450ps HCR32 doesn't (stock intake)... go figure.

I guess it boils down to what the person wants to do with the car. The ECR33 has a better chance of 550+hp with the RB25DET, therefore you're more likely to see the Greddy plenum on RB25DET equiped cars. Well, lets just say 50% of the medium-hard tuned RB25DETs have the Greddy plenum (or similar), and less than that for the RB20DET in Japan. Going out on a limb there, but you get the idea...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48478-greedy-plenums/#findComment-974958
Share on other sites
Evo_Lee Experienced

Evo_Lee

Posted
Posted

They do change these items but I'd say it would be the last thing to change if they do...plus they cost a fair bit. One would go for a larger throttle before doing the plenums.

Hell the Evo 4G63 plenums is great, demo cars are pushing out 600ps with them. We only touch the exhaust manifold side.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48478-greedy-plenums/#findComment-975628
Share on other sites
Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted

Of the benefits available when fitting the Greddy unit to an RB25, additional power isnt really one of them.

On the more heavily modified cars particularly, as Rezz said they are common but I believe this is more for the fact they greatly simplify the intercooler pipework, removing the notorious U-bend and requiring a much shorter pipe between the cooler and the intake plenum itself

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48478-greedy-plenums/#findComment-975995
Share on other sites
RBVS Community Regular

RBVS

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks heaps guys. yea was looking for info as, with cams for the rb25 people have pick up on the common jap commbo so i am looking to do the same but with the greddy plenum so to speak. Its a part that doesnt gain on the dyno but could make a quicker car buy response and heat soak just interested to see if its popular or worth while on the jap scene.

What i can gather is it is but the mod takes place toward the end.

im realy aiming for 380rwhp but am coming across alot of small problems including a vacum leek that cant be found and looks like the plenum will come off and new gaskets and hoses installed. Loking at the price of these plenums they seem to have droped and i could get one for a 1000 or just under, so now would be the time but ive still got stock cams and exhaust manifold which seem to be done befor a plenum upgrade.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48478-greedy-plenums/#findComment-976058
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...