Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SmItleR, Paragon... you didn't answer his question.

The Greddy (Goo-red-ee :P) intake plenum is a fairly popular conversion in Japan. I wouldn't say that *everyone* considers it, for example, a 400ps ECR33 has the Greddy plenum, yet a 450ps HCR32 doesn't (stock intake)... go figure.

I guess it boils down to what the person wants to do with the car. The ECR33 has a better chance of 550+hp with the RB25DET, therefore you're more likely to see the Greddy plenum on RB25DET equiped cars. Well, lets just say 50% of the medium-hard tuned RB25DETs have the Greddy plenum (or similar), and less than that for the RB20DET in Japan. Going out on a limb there, but you get the idea...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48478-greedy-plenums/#findComment-974958
Share on other sites

They do change these items but I'd say it would be the last thing to change if they do...plus they cost a fair bit. One would go for a larger throttle before doing the plenums.

Hell the Evo 4G63 plenums is great, demo cars are pushing out 600ps with them. We only touch the exhaust manifold side.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48478-greedy-plenums/#findComment-975628
Share on other sites

Of the benefits available when fitting the Greddy unit to an RB25, additional power isnt really one of them.

On the more heavily modified cars particularly, as Rezz said they are common but I believe this is more for the fact they greatly simplify the intercooler pipework, removing the notorious U-bend and requiring a much shorter pipe between the cooler and the intake plenum itself

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48478-greedy-plenums/#findComment-975995
Share on other sites

thanks heaps guys. yea was looking for info as, with cams for the rb25 people have pick up on the common jap commbo so i am looking to do the same but with the greddy plenum so to speak. Its a part that doesnt gain on the dyno but could make a quicker car buy response and heat soak just interested to see if its popular or worth while on the jap scene.

What i can gather is it is but the mod takes place toward the end.

im realy aiming for 380rwhp but am coming across alot of small problems including a vacum leek that cant be found and looks like the plenum will come off and new gaskets and hoses installed. Loking at the price of these plenums they seem to have droped and i could get one for a 1000 or just under, so now would be the time but ive still got stock cams and exhaust manifold which seem to be done befor a plenum upgrade.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48478-greedy-plenums/#findComment-976058
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...