Jump to content
SAU Community

Registering Engine Swapped Car in NSW


Recommended Posts

1 minute ago, nitznair said:

Hahahaha, thanks for the encouraging words mate. I did a fair bit of research online and asked around before i jumped into this. The whole swap if registered successfully, will definitely be unique. One of a kind in NSW 😉. A to Z do all testing in house. They use the dyno method to test emissions. Even if it fails, they will know what needs to be done, to pass it. Also they're based in QLD, so they dont seem too expensive or "strict" like the lot back here in Shitney 🤣

I would have gone RB or 2JZ swap but the engines are older than the chassis, therefore harder to engineer. I am essentially putting a newer engine into an older car with the L76. 

Once engineering is done and i have paperwork in hand then nobody needs to know if the car gets cammed or something 😉😉🤣🤣🤣

Please post up your results and some build pics as it goes. It sounds like it will be very nice :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Please post up your results and some build pics as it goes. It sounds like it will be very nice :)

Sure thing bro. 

My mate in QLD will be doing the swap. His done it to his own car up there but they dont have to deal with engineering. Just Mod Plates and you're good. 

This is twin turbo LS swap

FB_IMG_1688383290378.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, nitznair said:

Sure thing bro. 

My mate in QLD will be doing the swap. His done it to his own car up there but they dont have to deal with engineering. Just Mod Plates and you're good. 

This is twin turbo LS swap

 

FB_IMG_1688383290378.jpg

Fk me, looks amazing :)

Yeah, I was in NSW before but in QLD now, it's so much easier legally putting a built car on the road here compared to NSW it's crazy how different it is. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

i know this thread is a couple months old, but ive just done a efi and turbo upgrade on my 260z.

pulled a engineer certified v8 out so i technically did an engine swap.

up until today (the last day of september 2023) there had been an exemption on cars needing emissions testing done to satisfy the engineering requirements. i just got my car in on the 28th and had the engine certified.

all i needed was the engineer report and di the paperwork at rta. easy job

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...