Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 remote door locking issues

Hafidel36

By Hafidel36,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Hafidel36 Apprentice

Hafidel36

Posted
Posted

Hello, so my first of (hopefully not too) many issues I hope to solve with your help. My remote door unlocking/locking does not function.

 

I have tried the method described HERE and the car goes in programming mode, but then simply doesn't respond to any buttons. I have replaced the battery in the sender.

This is the key I have. Came with the car, but I do not know if this is the original one.

image.thumb.png.40d4c68e204f964331db60aeca2e4b6e.png

 

Where do I start diagnosing the potential issue? Is it with the receiver, actuator or remote and how?

I opened the opened the doorcard and this is the actuator in the driver door:

image.thumb.png.141bc54612e10c8127320c1bb8a2a0ae.png

Thanks a lot!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484922-r34-remote-door-locking-issues/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

One potential if the car goes into programming mode is the key is actually dead (not just battery).

Might be worth looking at a local locksmith who can code something aftermarket for Nissans of the era

Hafidel36 Apprentice

Hafidel36

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Duncan, Does someone know what frequency the remote is on? I have a bazillion remotes lying around for work and I can try to use another remote. Should the remote be giving some indicator like a light eg.?

soviet_merlin Mentor

soviet_merlin

Posted
Posted

There's no light on the key. I don't think there's a way to tell whether it's working or not just by looking at it. Personally, I'd try to rule easy things out. Starting with

- Does the central locking work with the key in the door?

- Does the central locking work with the button in the driver's door?

If yes to both then I would think it's less likely to be an issue in the doors themselves. I'd agree with Duncan and try and find out whether the key is actually working or try a different one.

I spent some time with a sort of similar issue on my Stagea where remote unlocking works but locking doesn't. It's the same style key and it looks like it's transmitting at 315MHz. Checked it on a Flipper Zero and it picks up something at 315MHz and FM476 modulation when I press the button.

In my case the key isn't transmitting anything on the lock button. So the key not working even though it looks fine and has a fresh battery seems to be a thing.

 

Might be worth looking into the service manual if you want to dig deeper. See as an example the section of the Stagea manual where it shows how the key signal is picked and how it's passed on to the doors. And the different ways to program or reset it. Not sure if it'll help much for the R34 though as even between the two Stagea series they changed some of the logic. But surely there's an equivalent R34 manual.

stagea_service_manual_central_locking.pdf

  • Like 2
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, soviet_merlin said:

I spent some time with a sort of similar issue on my Stagea where remote unlocking works but locking doesn't. It's the same style key and it looks like it's transmitting at 315MHz. Checked it on a Flipper Zero and it picks up something at 315MHz and FM476 modulation when I press the button.

This is almost certainly a button problem. The little carbon/rubber pads don't work when you get a layer of schmutz on the contact pad. Usually a wipe with isopropyl is all that is required. I have to do it on my remote fobs every couple of years, various calculator buttons, the alarm keypad in the office. Anything where the buttons get a lot of use and get funky.

  • Like 3
Hafidel36 Apprentice

Hafidel36

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you all, I will try to clean the board firstly and alternatively try to get a different FOB. Will let you guys know the result. Car is now off the get manual swapped 🥰

  • Like 1
soviet_merlin Mentor

soviet_merlin

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

This is almost certainly a button problem. The little carbon/rubber pads don't work when you get a layer of schmutz on the contact pad. Usually a wipe with isopropyl is all that is required. I have to do it on my remote fobs every couple of years, various calculator buttons, the alarm keypad in the office. Anything where the buttons get a lot of use and get funky.

OMFG! This has been bugging me for almost two and a half years now. Especially when taking the dogs because of having to walk back onto the street to lock the car. Opened up the key, swiped a cotton bud over all the contact points, bent the battery pins a bit more and put it back together. Didn't even end up using the isopropyl. It didn't look too bad but got a bit of gunk off. Guess what? It's working now. Thanks for the suggestion! I'm so stoked right now, I owe you one.

Though I'm still not quite sure where it went wrong. Because the actual mechanism for the buttons is internal and can't get to it I would think. See SW1 and SW2 on the photo.

pcb_remote_key.thumb.jpg.519bbe267264589ab99bf44451260bb2.jpg

 

33 minutes ago, Hafidel36 said:

Thank you all, I will try to clean the board firstly and alternatively try to get a different FOB. Will let you guys know the result. Car is now off the get manual swapped 🥰

Woot, that's very exciting! Re the fob hopefully a bit of a clean is all it needs.

  • Like 1
Hafidel36 Apprentice

Hafidel36

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 08/09/2023 at 1:49 AM, GTSBoy said:

This is almost certainly a button problem. The little carbon/rubber pads don't work when you get a layer of schmutz on the contact pad. Usually a wipe with isopropyl is all that is required. I have to do it on my remote fobs every couple of years, various calculator buttons, the alarm keypad in the office. Anything where the buttons get a lot of use and get funky.

I also checked my FOB, and it was DISGUSTING! 

image.thumb.png.27acd22de8cc3008860a5da64c14de2a.png

I had some great hope the cleanup would be enough to get it working again, but unfortunately I'm afraid it was too much for the board. It looks like it got dipped in cola or something. After cleanup it still didn't work, but I am a little bit more certain the FOB is the culprit here.

But great advice! Had no idea the IP rating was in the negatives on these keys.

  • Haha 2
  • 2 months later...
soviet_merlin Mentor

soviet_merlin

Posted
Posted

Hey @Hafidel36, there's an Australian seller on ebay selling replacement keys. See this listing for example. Might be worth a try for you.

There is an alternative R34 listing depending on key type. It's worth messaging them to make sure to get the right one. I ordered a key for my Stagea and they responded same day and stopped me from getting the wrong one.

Programming mode doesn't work on my car currently so I haven't been able to try it, but the key itself looks fine. Seems fine on the signal analyser as well. I'm not convinced it's an OEM one as it didn't come in the Nissan packaging and doesn't have the Nissan logo on the back. But feel and quality-wise it's no different. The actual board in it looks the same as well.

This is how it came. The right one is my original.

IMG_20231010_115936.thumb.jpg.3684282e87a40849d919cf317f14c239.jpgIMG_20231010_115917.thumb.jpg.662a6d5af0b9f1924afe22c3d1ba8f5f.jpgIMG_20231010_115829.thumb.jpg.ebd4150d649f21ebb1202631ae510a18.jpg

 

I was only going to mention it after actually trying to pair the key but I'm not sure when I'll get around to it. I have the annoying door chime disabled that comes up when opening the door with the key still in the ignition. So much better without it, but I think the car doesn't detect the key in the ignition anymore and hence the routine to get into programming mode doesn't work either.

Hafidel36 Apprentice

Hafidel36

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks so much @soviet_merlin! Key looks very good indeed, quite pricey for a replica to be fair though! But good that you mentioned the signal analyser, haven't even thought about that to see if the key works. Might check when I get the car back!

I did buy a general key with FOB on the same frequency from AliExpress but that didn't work as well.

Will keep you posted!

soviet_merlin Mentor

soviet_merlin

Posted
Posted
23 hours ago, Hafidel36 said:

I did buy a general key with FOB on the same frequency from AliExpress but that didn't work as well.

Haha, well, see this is what happens when you go cheap :)

Personally I don't think $200 is a big ask for a working replacement key. Not having to lock/unlock the car with the key in the door all the time would be worth more than that to me. And they do state that they offer a full refund if the key doesn't work.

And if the non-OEM outside is a problem, just swap the PCB over to the old key.

What might help: I had the key on my watchlist and sitting in my cart on ebay for a few days without actually purchasing it and the seller sent an ebay offer with a 15% discount.

Hafidel36 Apprentice

Hafidel36

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 29/11/2023 at 10:54 PM, soviet_merlin said:

Haha, well, see this is what happens when you go cheap :)

Personally I don't think $200 is a big ask for a working replacement key. Not having to lock/unlock the car with the key in the door all the time would be worth more than that to me. And they do state that they offer a full refund if the key doesn't work.

And if the non-OEM outside is a problem, just swap the PCB over to the old key.

What might help: I had the key on my watchlist and sitting in my cart on ebay for a few days without actually purchasing it and the seller sent an ebay offer with a 15% discount.

Well it wasn't necessarily going cheap. Just wasn't sure the key was the issue as it has never worked since I got the car.

Ordered a new key now, found one in the UK so a lot closer to me! Will keep everyone posted if it works!

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
alnoz7 Newbie

alnoz7

Posted
Posted

The key is not recognised on my 2005 Stagea - just get the key symbol lighting up in red on the cluster. Where to start with solving the issue?  Have downloaded Nissdat 2 and 3 but still cannot access the system to search for faults? Any suggestions or likely source of help with diagnostics in N.E Vic/ Albury area?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...