Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

I have brought my R34 to the bodyshop to get the Z-Tune bodykit fitted. This also includes the rear overfenders. My wheel situation always was a bit rough so was wondering what theoretically would be the best option.

I was running 18", 8,5J ET35 all around with 20mm spacers in the back and 5 mm spacers in the front. (from memory, the car is at the bodyshop so can't verify) It was pretty tight as the car was also lowered, but I also noticed the fenders being rolled to make this fit.

Now I don't really know how much wider the overfenders will make the car, but I believe it's around 50 mm per side in the back and 20 mm per side in the front. 

I am not so familiar with all these calculations so I was hoping someone could verify some numbers and advise on what kind of wheel numbers I should be looking at to get a correct fitment without spacers (or as minimal as possible). I would like to keep 18".

I don't think I can compare it with a GT-R because I don't think the track width is the same.

It's ~20mm on each side over the GTT. It depends on your ride height and whether you are cutting fenders at the back to fit the kit, because the inside metal guard will remain the same dimensions as stock, unless it is pulled out, or cut out.

Further to that, it really depends on what you consider "good specs" to be.

The real answer is measure. I've got the same kit and the same plans - And I've taken measurements... but I won't be taking final measurements until the bodykit is actually on the car, and I can measure it while it's on the ground because +2mm in theory may not be 2mm in practice, and that can ruin everything.

Thanks Kinkstaah, will do just that. I was hoping to get some theory behind it and start looking for some good deals! But the best idea is to just be patient I guess..

 

Thanks!

  • Like 1

Yeah in my case I took my current wheels (18x9+30) and simply made some measurements to add +20mm to the outside edge of both.

I also noticed the inside edge of the rears has about 30-50mm of space. The front has like 0.1mm to the arm as it stands.

This leads to 18x10 +17 at the front, and something weird like 18x11+35 at the back. No wheels exist in these measurements which is why I'll have to go custom - And definitely measure and test some other wheels first.

By my maths 18x10.5+15 at the front should absolutely poke.

Yet it's a common size for the front of 33/34 GTR's, it could be:

1) it needs more low and more camber to fit
2) the rim actually pokes in all these setups
3) the geometry is different

Or all of the above. Which is why I'm waiting before I buy things...

  • 2 months later...

That looks great, and I'm envious of your front bar fitment after having 'fun' with mine right now.

I still don't understand the maths, because the new rear should poke 20mm further out than the new fronts do, but unless the rear got flared out 20mm more than the fronts did.. or you made a typo.

Does look great though!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...