Jump to content
SAU Community

Mobil 1 v Motul engine oils.

P1E

By P1E,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 83
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

Ok here's something that I have only discovered recently. This is to do with my motorcycle, but since oil is meant to remain as consistent as possible between changes I think it can apply to a certain extent to cars. The main difference between my bike and car is the operating temps, as the bike has no turbo.

In the past I have been changing the oil in my bike every 3000km (factory specifies 6000km). However at between 1000-2500km, I noticed the (wet) clutch grabbing significantly more than when the oil was fresh. To me that means the oil friction properties have changed, because the oil is now allowing the clutch to slip differently than when the oil is fresh. Even though this means the clutch is slipping more, I fail to see how the oil could be getting BETTER over time. Oils break down in engines, they don't get better.

This happened across the board no matter what oil I was using, and I noticed that the "cheaper" oils would do it earlier than the more expensive ones. The oils I used in the bike in order of worst to best are:

Castrol Formula R 5W-30

Castrol Formula R 10W-60

Shell synthetic 10W-40 (designed for motorcycles)

Motul semi-synth 15W-50 (designed for motorcycles)

Mobil 1 5W-50

Fuchs synthetic 5W-50

Motul semi-synth Turbolite 10W-40

The weirdest thing here is that the oils designed for motorcycles are only average at best. The reason I tried car oils is because I read a review on the net saying that motorcycle oils aren't necessarily better for bikes. The most surprising thing is the Turbolite oil I've got listed at the end there, which I used for the first time in my most recent oil change. I accidentally missed my usual 3000km oil change because I was waiting for the clutch to slip to know when I should start paying attention to the odometer (I have to push a button to cycle it between the trip meter). But it's still working exactly the same as when the oil was new, after 3500km. Because of that I'm going to see if it can do the full 6000km without having to change the oil.

I don't get it. A cheap semi-synth is better than a full synth costing 50% more? I also don't understand why Motul have a car oil that's better in a bike than their bike oil. Just marketing at work I guess. I still use the more expensive 5W-50 8100 full synth Motul in the Skyline, but mostly because the turbo runs a lot hotter and I think a semi-synth will break down too quickly because of that.

Anyway I'm sold on Motul. I don't see any need to buy other brands again, unless Motul changes their formula for the worse.

JXL Rising Star

JXL

Posted
Posted

I haven't seen it mentioned but can i bring Castrol Magnatec into the equation? The promoted stuff about it reducing all that engine wear at start up etc. its viscus rating aswell is 10W so pretty low.

I see many of you are mentioned how the oils suck up all the dirt and carbon which causes it to go black so basically reducing the engine wear which magnatec says it does.

anyone got any results?

i have used Mobil 1 before and didn't really notice the difference between taht and castrol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...