Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I’m having issues with my power steering. the obvious heavy and light and comes on and off randomly now it’s constantly heavy. I’ve read through forums regarding this issue and what I’ve gather is that it’s referring to hicas deletion. That’s the problem mine didn’t come with hicas. 
 

I’ve rebuilt the steering rack, pump, changed the bent hardline on the rack and taken out the solenoid to clean and loosen up the actuator, applied 12v to get it moving. Roughly checked the loom to see if there’s any damage to the loom and nothing.

Now I’m checking the wiring. I’ve tested the wiring to the solenoid and it’s fluctuating between 0.07v to 0.03v. Does anyone know what it’s supposed to be reading? 5v?

Anyone one know how this all works? Is there a fuse in between? What else is it connected to? How does it connect to the speed sensor? A resistor fried in the ecu? Please help. It’s been years

Thanks in advance 

I have no idea what the power steering control module is on a non-HICAS car because I've never seen one. But it is a fair bet that is essentially the same thing as on any other Nissan of the period with variable PS. So, Maximas, that sort of thing.

It will pick up the ECU's speed signal off the "bus" (there's not really a bus - any consumers of the VSS are all just connected to that output on the ECU). The output should (most likely) be a PWM signal to give you an effective average voltage between the minimum and maximum values. You could possibly look at the HICAS part of the R32 manual to see what that range is likely to be (for non-HICAS, as it should be about the same).

8 hours ago, D.phantom said:

So I’m having issues with my power steering. the obvious heavy and light and comes on and off randomly now it’s constantly heavy. I’ve read through forums regarding this issue and what I’ve gather is that it’s referring to hicas deletion. That’s the problem mine didn’t come with hicas. 
 

I’ve rebuilt the steering rack, pump, changed the bent hardline on the rack and taken out the solenoid to clean and loosen up the actuator, applied 12v to get it moving. Roughly checked the loom to see if there’s any damage to the loom and nothing.

Now I’m checking the wiring. I’ve tested the wiring to the solenoid and it’s fluctuating between 0.07v to 0.03v. Does anyone know what it’s supposed to be reading? 5v?

Anyone one know how this all works? Is there a fuse in between? What else is it connected to? How does it connect to the speed sensor? A resistor fried in the ecu? Please help. It’s been years

Thanks in advance 

I don't have the full R32 factory service manual so I don't really know how to help you here but there is an EPS control module that modulates the EPS solenoid, marked C or 28500 in this diagram.

 image.thumb.png.af6e1547292bee80e0f6d5d28d15cb25.png

The R32 GTR service manual floating around mentions it should be about 4.4-6.6V between the diagnostic connector and solenoid valve at 0 kph, then 1.5-2.2V at 60 mph, it also has the no HICAS equipped variant connector mentioned:

image.thumb.png.f1f12cce19a64ae324d6582517c35299.png

image.thumb.png.390825fb873add842c2333a3a399627b.pngimage.thumb.png.d6c32abacecb1a69277c022bdec22d2b.png

 

Edited by joshuaho96
  • Like 1
2 hours ago, D.phantom said:

Do you know where the EPS module will be located?

image.thumb.png.fd78be733479c0946963fb0425c52e15.png

A is the HICAS CU.  As far as I know, there are no other modules located at A in a car with HICAS, so it is fair to presume that F is the variable power steer module for non-HICAS cars. Same location, give or take. Makes sense - the wiring loom for the HICAS cars has the speed signal, power, solenoid drive, etc wires all present there - so why move the module and have to upend the wiring loom?

 

Having said the above though, it may be the case that F is further down in the rear guard - it's hard to tell. In which case it may be something else.

2 hours ago, D.phantom said:

And also the diagnostic connect located under the dash?

Yes, it is the multi-pin plug next to the under dash fuse box. Top left corner. Can't miss it. Be very careful though - use insulated probes to poke around in there so  you don't accidentally short 12v to ground or an ECU input etc etc.

Edited by GTSBoy
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

image.thumb.png.fd78be733479c0946963fb0425c52e15.png

A is the HICAS CU.  As far as I know, there are no other modules located at A in a car with HICAS, so it is fair to presume that F is the variable power steer module for non-HICAS cars. Same location, give or take. Makes sense - the wiring loom for the HICAS cars has the speed signal, power, solenoid drive, etc wires all present there - so why move the module and have to upend the wiring loom?

 

Having said the above though, it may be the case that F is further down in the rear guard - it's hard to tell. In which case it may be something else.

Yes, it is the multi-pin plug next to the under dash fuse box. Top left corner. Can't miss it. Be very careful though - use insulated probes to poke around in there so  you don't accidentally short 12v to ground or an ECU input etc etc.

I don't know if this is accurate. The EPC places the EPS control unit somewhere in the engine bay or somewhere in the interior near the firewall, presumably because the things it's controlling mostly live up in the front of the car unlike HICAS which has a whole steering rack on the rear axle to handle.

@D.phantom The R32 GTR manual actually has more than I give credit for talking about the non-HICAS cars:

Screenshot2024-05-05at11_09_51PM.thumb.png.873630d4a25ea9abdf967beea42b9d76.png

You can probe the pins on the diagnostic connector directly to read the EPS solenoid voltage as far as I can tell following the flow chart.

Edited by joshuaho96
4 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

The R32 GTR manual actually has more than I give credit for talking about the non-HICAS cars:

Nah. I reckon that that is the HICAS CU. Just the large plug, PS specific and other I/O. I can't see that there'd be a need/want for the (non-HICAS) PS CU to be watching any of those inputs other than the speed sensor.

10 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Nah. I reckon that that is the HICAS CU. Just the large plug, PS specific and other I/O. I can't see that there'd be a need/want for the (non-HICAS) PS CU to be watching any of those inputs other than the speed sensor.

Screenshot2024-05-06at2_13_37PM.thumb.png.c2c4aa46a34a8cf01c54f048d2d12c40.png

HICAS has a much more complicated circuit diagram, for some reason the R32 GTR service manual discusses both. The HICAS module has proper 2 way communication over consult, the "EPS control unit" doesn't have any of that and only exposes a raw analog voltage for the EPS solenoid valve. It's ultimately mostly about speed sensitive steering but the non-HICAS unit also looks at the neutral switch/brake/clutch switch to adjust how it provides assist.

40 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

the "EPS control unit" doesn't have any of that and only exposes a raw analog voltage for the EPS solenoid valve. It's ultimately mostly about speed sensitive steering but the non-HICAS unit also looks at the neutral switch/brake/clutch switch to adjust how it provides assist.

Yeah, alright, I take it back. I hadn't bothered to compare the terminal numbers - they're not the same. I was working on the presumption that it was the "small plug" half of the HICAS CU because it has the same plug as the small plug on the HICAS CU. And...the drawing says "Refer to Super HICAS system circuit diagram" which seemed to place it firmly in the world of HICAS, not non-HICAS.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers)
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
×
×
  • Create New...