Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Trying to seek some assistance with my issue.

I'm currently doing a complete overhaul of my suspension / driveline, on my r33 gtr and have completed stripped down the front assembly.

I had purchased a new pair of front knuckles (the painted silver ones in the pictured) They were advertised by the shop aswell as other retailers online to be compatible with the entire 4wd R chassis, however when trying to fit the new pair, they don't line up with the ball joints (from the lower control arm) and the steering tie rod. 

The other knuckle pictured is what came off the car, everything fits up to it perfectly, however I've been unable to figure what variant they are from originally.

received_1677649173005319.jpeg

received_290622887439031.jpeg

received_430000019661240.jpeg

received_8381878411827434.jpeg

Does the old one line up OK if you try to put it back in? In the 32 (different geometry) it is hard to reinsert the ball joint with the sway bar and spring attached.

But ultimately.....this wouldn't be the first aftermarket part that is not right....

I can see straight away that there is a difference in the relationship of the steering arm outer hole wrt the main body pf the knuckle. So there's no way that it would all just go back together with the various arms (ie tie rods) set to the lengths that work with the original knuckle.

image.thumb.png.a097645929fccccfa8b0f210446ddfc8.png

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...