Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Driving along today, my engine light flicked on showing code 14 speed sensor circuit.

It came on when i was cruising in 5th at 70kmh. No noticeable change in the driving experience, no slip light or anything else. Speedo works fine, the only thing that's different is my bulb in the bottom left of the dash has gone.

So I know this is going to be a dumb question but the bulb couldn't possibly be throwing this code? Otherwise I have no clue where to start, apparently this code could be anything along the speed sensing circuit? So speed sensor and wiring back to the ECU etc.

Is there a way to test the speed sensor to see if it's faulty?

If anyone is able to point me in the right direction to start would appreciate it. Cheers

Screenshot_20240521-171551.png

1 hour ago, Annex said:

Hi guys,

Driving along today, my engine light flicked on showing code 14 speed sensor circuit.

It came on when i was cruising in 5th at 70kmh. No noticeable change in the driving experience, no slip light or anything else. Speedo works fine, the only thing that's different is my bulb in the bottom left of the dash has gone.

So I know this is going to be a dumb question but the bulb couldn't possibly be throwing this code? Otherwise I have no clue where to start, apparently this code could be anything along the speed sensing circuit? So speed sensor and wiring back to the ECU etc.

Is there a way to test the speed sensor to see if it's faulty?

If anyone is able to point me in the right direction to start would appreciate it. Cheers

Screenshot_20240521-171551.png

Most likely if the speedo works fine it's the driver circuit in the cluster that takes the VSS signal and converts it into a neater format for the ECU/HICAS/etc. Pull your gauge cluster out and clean the board with contact cleaner, all that fun stuff. Look for corrosion, signs of burned contacts, failed solder joints, etc.

You won't likely find an R34 manual, but the R33 (and probably usefully enough R32, if you know how to infer) manual will tell you how to inspect the speed signal. You will need either consult or an oscilloscope. Now is the time to buy a cheapy scope from aliexpress if you haven't got one. No-one should be without one these days.

19 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

Most likely if the speedo works fine it's the driver circuit in the cluster that takes the VSS signal and converts it into a neater format for the ECU/HICAS/etc. Pull your gauge cluster out and clean the board with contact cleaner, all that fun stuff. Look for corrosion, signs of burned contacts, failed solder joints, etc.

Thanks mate, honestly would make sense, I reflowed my gauge cluster solder joints last week after that wasn't working. now it works like a charm 

15 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

You won't likely find an R34 manual, but the R33 (and probably usefully enough R32, if you know how to infer) manual will tell you how to inspect the speed signal. You will need either consult or an oscilloscope. Now is the time to buy a cheapy scope from aliexpress if you haven't got one. No-one should be without one these days.

I've been looking for an excuse to buy an oscilloscope off ali express. My time is now! Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...