Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

My 98 GTT is having issues and I am stuck . the issues surprisingly happened after I washed my car but I am not sure if that is the reason for the issues . Initially there was no cel car started up no problem but seemed to have a misfire at idle and wouldn’t rev above 2k (limp mode ?) . I tried cleaning the AFM and still same issues then the idle got worse and worse . Now the car won’t hold an idle / start and threw codes 12 (afm) 17(abs?) and 46 (tms) . I pulled the coil packs and spark plugs to try to see if they were the issue and car looked to be running rich (black) and the coils (splitfire) all had resistance between 1.5 and 1.6 and cleaned the afm AGAIN so I put back everything back and codes 12 and 17 are gone now but 46 is still there ?
 

how do I correct the code ? Could my issues be from water in the cat from the car wash ? My dumb self also pulled the TPS without marking it so could that also be an issue for starting it? spark plugs are fairly new yet they were black when I pulled them (all of them) 
 

I plan to pull the cat tomorrow to take a look to see if it is clogged. 

also replaced fuel filter 

Side note, my coupler from TB to J pipe is cracking . Will a 2.5 silicon coupler work as a replacement for this old oem one ? 

any insight is appreciated 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485780-rb25det-neo-help/
Share on other sites

Make sure you set your TPS back to .46 volts with throttle closed and key in the on position (car off) then use multi metre and probe the positive up the back of your TPS plug, im not 100% sure which of the 3 wires is power on a NEO motor but on my S1 its the middle but just double check. 

as for the coupling in-between tb and j pipe, just take the old one off and take it with you to autobarn, supercheap whatever your go to is and match it up. Those places stock what you need :) 

Just now, MspecR33_ said:

Make sure you set your TPS back to .46 volts with throttle closed and key in the on position (car off) then use multi metre and probe the positive up the back of your TPS plug, im not 100% sure which of the 3 wires is power on a NEO motor but on my S1 its the middle but just double check. 

as for the coupling in-between tb and j pipe, just take the old one off and take it with you to autobarn, supercheap whatever your go to is and match it up. Those places stock what you need :) 

hold on i just realised you're in the USA not Australia hahah, so in that case take the coupling to any automotive parts store you guys have over there instead hahah

20 hours ago, AndyR34GTT said:

Thanks man ! I’ll calibrate the tps . This is the mechanical one though ? Same voltage right ?

Not sure what you mean by mechanical man but this is what im talking about, this is your TPS, and yeh 0.46V is what you’re after!

spacer.png

Mine doesn’t have two plugs . It’s a 1998 rb25det Neo. I didn’t touch that sensor I removed the one in the back which is the mechanical tps which is measured by the throttle / pedal . 

 

 

TPS I bought

8 hours ago, AndyR34GTT said:

Mine doesn’t have two plugs . It’s a 1998 rb25det Neo. I didn’t touch that sensor I removed the one in the back which is the mechanical tps which is measured by the throttle / pedal . 

 

 

TPS I bought

Yeh man what you bought is the TPS. Exactly what's circled in the picture I sent, non Neo's sometimes have 2 plugs but that doesn't change the procedure of setting the correct TPS voltage

Great to hear ! Thanks 🙏  waiting for my iacv gasket to get it back together and pray it starts. I’m worried it’s clogged injectors , cam angle sensor , or block is shot . I plan to do tests on all this need week . 

Problem solved 

 

Things I did , 

 

replaced fuel filter, tps sensor , air fuel meter , iacv gasket (had to since I removed it to clean it)

 

other things I did was removed spark plugs and cleaned , checked all coil packs and retighten down packs , cleaned iacv valve , hollowed out oem cat (looked super clogged), reset ecu , cleaned AFM apexi filter pod .

 

not sure what did it but I’m assuming it was either tps or air flow meter / dirty filter 

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...