Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as we all know the Q50 stereo from factor has no RCA outs so i bought a Kicker output line convertor to use from the factory sub.

but im wondering as the device has L+ L- R+ R- which ones do i use for my subwoofer?

its only going to be 2 wires as im not worrying about doing my stock speakers just my sub.

do i just use the 2 L+ L- or do i use a combo of L+ R- or what?

I would just use one channel, if you use L+ and L-.  I would connect the R+ and R- input wires together, since it seems to have a 12V input, it might have some small preamps in there and you don't want them sitting with open circuit inputs.

All 4 wires from the head unit into the converter. That's both channels, so you do not lose any bass information that might be in one channel and not the other (which decent music should have, but I'm sure the shit that the kids these days are listening to probably doesn't).

Connecting both channels with alleviate the floating input problem highlighted by Greg above.

As to what you should do with the outputs from it - they should also both be connected to 2 input channels of an amp that can sum the two channels and yield a single low passed output to a single channel. There is often a switch on channel amps to achieve that goal.

If you're just listening to modern electronic music, then you can probably ignore the fact that there's two channels and just listen to one of them. If there is missing information it will probably only improve it by not being able to hear it anyway.

  • Haha 2

i was thinking that the 2 wires that go to the sub from factory has some sort of preamp like you mentioned and also a lo Pass filter to get just bass.

now that will only use 1 channel and that really should be all i need for a sub?

if i was trying to put a set of speakers in the back i can understand cutting into the left and right speaker wires.

i will try how im talking about doing it and if that is crap i will do it the way of all wires.

thanks for the input guys.

 

The existing factory sub feed should already have a sum of L+R and a low pass filter, so it probably isn't necessary to take another L and R feed from the HU.  If it didn't have a factory sub output, then that would be the best option though.

Does your new amp not have speaker level inputs?  that would eliminate the need for the speaker - line level converter completely.

 

i have 2 MTX thunder amps they do have the line input aswell but i have no idea where the connectors are to use.

so for ease of being able to run 2 sets of RCA leads im just using the convertor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
×
×
  • Create New...