Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, 

I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice. 

I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power.

Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure.

Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust.

Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack.

Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle?

I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar. 

also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it.

Thanks in advance guys.

Cheers, Rowdy

 

  • Like 1

As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely.

There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based.

If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.

Thanks for the info GTSBoy, legend. If there is no downside i'll likely just get the larger bosch units because why not... I remember hearing stories about people washing their bores with fitment of too large injectors way back when, which i guess has made me shy about it now. But happy to know it shouldn't be an issue.

Ozdavroz, the little rb20 is a lot of fun- now that i have a little extra funds and time i am very glad to be tampering with the ol girl again, after so long. More RB20's on the road the better.

Cheers, Rowdy

23 minutes ago, QB6SAGR said:

Thanks for the info GTSBoy, legend. If there is no downside i'll likely just get the larger bosch units because why not... I remember hearing stories about people washing their bores with fitment of too large injectors way back when, which i guess has made me shy about it now. But happy to know it shouldn't be an issue.

Ozdavroz, the little rb20 is a lot of fun- now that i have a little extra funds and time i am very glad to be tampering with the ol girl again, after so long. More RB20's on the road the better.

Cheers, Rowdy

Personally, I'd stick to appropriate sized injectors if you're not going to go shooting for needing all of that fuel flow.

Even though ECUs have improved, having that less size still allows for slightly easier fine tuning.

Basically, an injector twice the size you need, means giving a small change, is still going to be about twice as big as you might want. Being able to make smaller and finer adjustments can make dial ins easier.

ECUs still have a limited resolution they can work with. Why give away 40% of that resolution to something you don't need?

  • Like 2
16 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

Personally, I'd stick to appropriate sized injectors if you're not going to go shooting for needing all of that fuel flow.

Even though ECUs have improved, having that less size still allows for slightly easier fine tuning.

Basically, an injector twice the size you need, means giving a small change, is still going to be about twice as big as you might want. Being able to make smaller and finer adjustments can make dial ins easier.

ECUs still have a limited resolution they can work with. Why give away 40% of that resolution to something you don't need?

That makes a lot of sense. good info, point taken. Thanks Matt.

Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal. 

Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops? 

And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done?

Thanks in advance guy,

Cheers, Rowdy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...