Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My son has an R34 gt auto. I'm looking at methods on how to tune it with the view to be able to further tune it down the track when he is off his P,a and can go turbo. The issue is the 98 gt auto has a seperate TCM and is not compatible with swapping out a gtt auto nistuned pcm ( from what I have read so far ) Please if anyone has info on what to do here I would much appreciate. Realise that some options include manual swap, manualised valve body. Just hoping there is a more direct running option I haven't been able to find. Thanks in advance. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486257-r34-gt-auto-tuning/
Share on other sites

Just put a Haltech in it.

Be aware that there is little extra speed available, so almost any money spent on NA "tuning" is wasted. Far better to spend on brakes, suspension, etc.

Be also aware that the auto will die behind a turbo, so a manual swap is not a bad idea.

Be aware that parts for these tasks are becoming very difficult to find.

If you want to do the wiring, the GTT engine ecu has the same pinouts extra that the seperate TCM in the NA car has.

You can literally grab the wires/pins that lead into the Seperate TCM and wire them into the corresponding pins in the GTT Engine ECU.

You could then in theory Nistune it.

I realised this when everyone put it in the too hard basket and I actually looked at the f**kin R34 manual. This is after I had previously had a seperate aftermarket TCM controller in my original N/A chassis car and a very built gearbox from a GTT, running a seperate Haltech engine ECU.

I ran into this issue when I re-shelled the car into a GTT shell, so my aftermarket TCM was no longer plug and play, because the loom/modules were not present. I was pretty livid when realizing just how simple the original fix actually was. It sat for 3+ years at various workshops trying to find a solution.

In practice none of this is a worthwhile idea for a lot of reasons, generally surrounding the shitness of the NA auto, the autos in general that come with skylines, and the NA engine and lack of gains. The gearbox is specced for the 2.5L N/A and barely at that level.

If you have to pay anyone any money to do any of this, that is money spent on manualizing the car and it's not even close in terms of a comparison. Learning to drive manual is simpler than going through the pain of dealing with the N/A gearbox and he'll have fun to boot.

Yeah, R34 with RB25DE likely has a 4AX01 box in it, which is a medium duty auto ~ with the RB25DET mill, it would've been fitted with 4AX00 (4AX13) heavy duty build (same case, different internals). An RB25DET will lunch on a medium duty 4R01 auto in pretty short order ...to give you some visual idea of differences between the 'medium' and 'heavy duty' boxes, you only have to look at the 2/4 band for comparison...it's chalk and cheese...(plus bigger high clutch, extra pinion in the planetary sets, higher oil pump output, different bearings, higher TC stall speed )...

spacer.png

You can control them with just about any aftermarket TCU for electric-over 4-speed with TC lockup clutch (ie; the GM 4L60E and others)...I have a custom standalone TCU that includes MAP sensor (for turbo applications) along with TPS, RPM, and line pressure monitoring...in other words, I don't use any ECU signals...no real need to.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Just an FYI.. I installed a ECU Masters det3 piggback. For the next few years car will remain N/A but it has inbuillt 4Bar map sensor , boost control etc if we wanted to use it for turbo conversion when the time comes. Though the plan is to do a manual conversion and go to a link ecu when that time comes.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
    • thanks GTSboy. My confusion at the moment is i am trying to locate the ignition, ECU battery power and the ECU negative The closest thing i can find is the for the S15 on Page 8 of the Wiring Specialties web page https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9F33_M_GgENQnZ6STMxVmVNd1E/view?resourcekey=0-eZ4nNRwRoqa1qvKlWWHm8A I cannot find the same diagram for the R33 RB25DET Series 2 dash plug pin out.... Do you know what the Pins? or know where i can find the same pinout diagram for the RB dash plug? Thanks for the advice on the box... i like a 6 speed so might be on the lookout or the box now.. a topic of discussion for another post...
    • Will have a look at that. I cant see any leaks 
    • Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.
    • Staring on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hand some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.
×
×
  • Create New...