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Bedding in rings - recommended option?

Russco

By Russco,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Russco Proficient

Russco

Posted
Posted

I have had conflicting opinions from different tuners as to the recommended run-in procedure for a freshly rebuilt RB26:-

1. bed in rings on a dyno, then light tune & run-in over 5000klms

2. no dyno, lock Power FC at 4500rpm & run in on street over 3000klms

Both agreed on run-in oil, low boost etc however number 2 said a dyno is not a good option first up - any ideas!?

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natho Contributor

natho

Posted
Posted

my opinion is number one, since on the dyno you can load up the engine as much as you want (and rev it as high or low as you want at that load). i know people who have done this and had no trouble. some people go to the trouble of putting a lot of weight on their car (towing etc) so they can increase the load to bed rings in - but a full load run through 2nd gear even to 4000rpm is probably hard to do, especially without speeding.

however this is just my opinion and i've never rebuilt an engine myself.

japsky33 Enthusiast

japsky33

Posted
Posted

Just take it easy for the first 3 - 6 thousand k's always changing RPM, when first start is done drive for a bit at different revs then load it up a hill with your brakes on a couple of times. never drive at a constant rpm and dont rev hard.

You dont want to thrash it with the running in oil becuase its shit oil and will carbonise easier then normal oil causing seal damage on your Turbo.

All the motors we rebuild and some have made over 600HP for more then 2 years have been fine with this method.

BR,

JH

I have had conflicting opinions from different tuners as to the recommended run-in procedure for a freshly rebuilt RB26:-

1. bed in rings on a dyno, then light tune & run-in over 5000klms

2. no dyno, lock Power FC at 4500rpm & run in on street over 3000klms

Both agreed on run-in oil, low boost etc however number 2 said a dyno is not a good option first up - any ideas!?

japsky33 Enthusiast

japsky33

Posted
Posted

oh and another thing have your tune spot on so your not using to much fuel as to not 'petrol wash your bores'

*yeah i know this can happen at any time its just a warning for somebody who has just invested in a rebuild*

BR,

JH

Just take it easy for the first 3 - 6 thousand k's always changing RPM,  when first start is done drive for a bit at different revs then load it up a hill with your brakes on a couple of times. never drive at a constant rpm and dont rev hard.

You dont want to thrash it with the running in oil becuase its shit oil and will carbonise easier then normal oil causing seal damage on your Turbo.

All the motors we rebuild and some have made over 600HP for more then 2 years have been fine with this method.

BR,

JH

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Mobil1 synthetic in it to start, run it in on the dyno and tune it up

Drive it for a 1000km's and change the oil.

if all looks good dont worry, and those 1000km's dont have to be ***** km's underload up hills and all that crap.

Just get out there and enjoy it. After the first 1000 go crazy.

AzzurrA Grand Master

AzzurrA

Posted
Posted
Mobil1 synthetic in it to start, run it in on the dyno and tune it up

Drive it for a 1000km's and change the oil.

if all looks good dont worry, and those 1000km's dont have to be ***** km's underload up hills and all that crap.

Just get out there and enjoy it. After the first 1000 go crazy.

Complete opposite of what you should do... synthetic + brand new engine = dead engine before too long

nv033 Community Regular

nv033

Posted
Posted
I have had conflicting opinions from different tuners as to the recommended run-in procedure for a freshly rebuilt RB26:-

1. bed in rings on a dyno, then light tune & run-in over 5000klms

2. no dyno, lock Power FC at 4500rpm & run in on street over 3000klms

Both agreed on run-in oil, low boost etc however number 2 said a dyno is not a good option first up - any ideas!?

my motor has just recently been built...ive got 1200kms on the clock...within this ive had 3 dyno tunes with full boost and a run at wsid......i had the same problem in deciding ....but what i feel is very important is dont use to thin of an oil to run it in....i was a bit hesistant to open her up in the first 300kms but what i did was gave it a tune to 6000rpm...she responded well.......it is also very important that ur mixtures arent too rich (mine is 12 flat) as the extra fuel will glaze the bores.....once u feel confident open her up... :headspin: :headspin:

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Complete opposite of what you should do... synthetic + brand new engine = dead engine before too long

i had no doubt no-one would be able to accept that.

but ask the major manufacturers what tehy use... i think you'll find its synthetic.

Dont see the holen V6 dying before too long

japsky33 Enthusiast

japsky33

Posted
Posted

Not dead engine you just wont bed the rings in an she'll burn oil.. Not blue smoke out the back either you will just be down on oil all the time..

*The above depending on how bad the rings have not bedded in.*

I give a safe 300 - 500kmhs then open her up

BR,

JH

i had no doubt no-one would be able to accept that.

but ask the major manufacturers what tehy use... i think you'll find its synthetic.

Dont see the holen V6 dying before too long

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

none of the motors ive seen here in Vic are blowing oil, and lots have been running for years.

and some of these motors are cracking 400+awkw all-day everday in GTRs that regulary get flogged around the local circuits. Nothing im going to argue with at all.

each to thier own on this issue.. its just like BOV or no BOV.

raist60 Community Regular

raist60

Posted
Posted

I ran mine in with synthetic. It also had a whole load of power runs as its "run-in". Sorry but all this bullshit people speak about run in is garbage, my motor was run in at full ball with a synth oil and about 4000k later its not burning oil and running like a psycho.

BTW this isnt an attempt to argue i couldnt give two ****s whether anyone believes me / wants to argue or whatever just thought it might help someone.

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted

raist60,

I'd agree that an engine need not burn oil and run poorly if run in on synthetic if run in hard. However give me the same engine and mineral oil run in and I'll show you a motor with better compression and power every time (not to mention how much longer it's rings are going to last). The object is to get the rings to 'bite' nicely into the honed surface (a good surface hone is critical also). Synthetic oil like mobile 1 is so good at reducing the friction so it's never going to allow the kind of wear a 'run in' mineral oil will.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
I ran mine in with synthetic. It also had a whole load of power runs as its "run-in". Sorry but all this bullshit people speak about run in is garbage, my motor was run in at full ball with a synth oil and about 4000k later its not burning oil and running like a psycho.

BTW this isnt an attempt to argue i couldnt give two ****s whether anyone believes me / wants to argue or whatever just thought it might help someone.

Ya, same from what ive seen, but with motors well over 20thou km's on em.

Nothing wrong with em yet.

When is the actual point when the rings bed just to add to the thread :)

Bl4cK32 No, but ill have to pay for my own, and considering it'll be money outta my pocket if its stuffed would kinda make sure that how mine is being done... is going to be a way that works.

but it doesnt worry holden or ford, so it doesnt worry me either

yamaha227 Enthusiast

yamaha227

Posted
Posted

who has ever bought a brand new car and had to dump the oil at 1000 or whateva cause mineral or running in oil is used from the factory in your new car, synthetic straight up, why make your engine "wear in" ? just out of interest, buy a brand new porsche, mercedes HSV and see whats in it.... mobil 1

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