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Stalling automatic

E_Lu-SHuN

By E_Lu-SHuN,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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E_Lu-SHuN Mentor

E_Lu-SHuN

Posted
Posted

I've just recently got a bigger turbo install'd, and the car keeps STALLING even if i dont hit boost. The cars pretty much standard except for the turbo now, am i missing something?.. an aftermarket ecu? being that my car is automatic makes me kinda feel reluctant to get one.

Or could there be another option to it?

oh and another thing, is there any way of making the turbo spool up any earlier than 3500rpm?

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WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

woah a number of issues you have there

to answer your first question (ie why is it stalling) i would say check for an air leak in the cooler pipes

but you say your car is standard apart from the bigger turbo... i ask why? if you don't have exhaust/filter/cooler/fuelpump/ecu then why are you goign the turbo route? you may find that it gives you no more power with that shitty intercooler and stock exhaust...

good luck anyway.

Waz.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Time to adjust the idle bypass, increase the idle 100 rpm or so, add a bit more air and the ecu will add fuel to compensate. The result is a stronger idle. You may also be able to sneak a bit more ignition advance via the CAS, that strengthens up the idle as well.

The bottom line is you really need some ECU tuning, my rule of thumb is change turbo = change ECU. If you only want say around 220 rwkw, and being an auto, an SAFC may be enough to do the job to your satisfaction. If you power asperations are higher then a full ECU is the go. There are plenty of threads on ECU's in auto's, I strongly suggest you do a search and read session.

Hope that helps

E_Lu-SHuN Mentor

E_Lu-SHuN

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Time to adjust the idle bypass, increase the idle 100 rpm or so, add a bit more air and the ecu will add fuel to compensate.  The result is a stronger idle.  You may also be able to sneak a bit more ignition advance via the CAS, that strengthens up the idle as well.

The bottom line is you really need some ECU tuning, my rule of thumb is change turbo = change ECU.  If you only want say around 220 rwkw, and being an auto, an SAFC may be enough to do the job to your satisfaction.  If you power asperations are higher then a full ECU is the go.  There are plenty of threads on ECU's in auto's, I strongly suggest you do a search and read session.

Hope that helps

Hi SydneyKid, You seem to know alot when it comes to these things i pressume.

I was told about adjusting the idle but the car idles fine, bout 800rpm. But when i free rev it, its drops down low enough to stall. Same goes with driving.

A few q's.

If it was the airflow meter, would it be idleing rough? But it aiint, so it couldnt be?

I dont have a hi`flow cat. problem?

and one last thing, i noticed there's a hose bout 1" in diameter coming from the top of the engine bay that is not connect'd to anything, just sitting there unblocked. no idea where it goes or where it came from. Attached is a pic of wat hose im talkin bout.

Thanx for your time

E_Lu-SHuN Mentor

E_Lu-SHuN

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Time to adjust the idle bypass, increase the idle 100 rpm or so, add a bit more air and the ecu will add fuel to compensate.  The result is a stronger idle.  You may also be able to sneak a bit more ignition advance via the CAS, that strengthens up the idle as well.

The bottom line is you really need some ECU tuning, my rule of thumb is change turbo = change ECU.  If you only want say around 220 rwkw, and being an auto, an SAFC may be enough to do the job to your satisfaction.  If you power asperations are higher then a full ECU is the go.  There are plenty of threads on ECU's in auto's, I strongly suggest you do a search and read session.

Hope that helps

Hi SydneyKid, You seem to know alot when it comes to these things i pressume.

I was told about adjusting the idle but the car idles fine, bout 800rpm. But when i free rev it, its drops down low enough to stall. Same goes with driving.

A few q's.

If it was the airflow meter, would it be idleing rough? But it aiint, so it couldnt be?

I dont have a hi`flow cat. problem?

and one last thing, i noticed there's a hose bout 1" in diameter coming from the top of the engine bay that is not connect'd to anything, just sitting there unblocked. no idea where it goes or where it came from.

Thanx for your time

Angry Proficient

Angry

Posted
Posted

why are u reluctant to get a aftermarket ecu? it'll save u so much hassles in terms of tuning out problems like this. plenty of others have done this b4 .....why not do the same

it would b my first expenditure if i had that sort of mods done.

go the dip on a ecu m8

MT

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

i think thats your problem right there.. any pressure leak results in stalling and other stupid crap.. block it off properly at both ends (where its supposed to go also).. or connect it back up tomorrow and your problem should go away.

lukits01 Experienced

lukits01

Posted
Posted

Hey I have the same problem and my car is also an automatic

I had a little mishap awhile back and had to replace my exhaust cam with HKS 256

It ran ok for awhile but the idle started to get rougher and rougher

now it stalls sometimes at the lights and if I free rev it, it would stall

Cold starts are horrible have to pump some gas and the engine takes awhile to start (can hear this strange clicking noise as well)

sometimes when Im driving and I let go of the throttle, the engine would start struggling (can hear popping in the exhaust)

My mechanic seems to think there's something wrong with the timing, something about the CAS sending the wrong info to the ECU. But it seems ok at higher revs or when the car is allready rolling

Is this just because standard ECU cant take 256 ex cam? or is the CAS screwed? or maybe the cam wasnt installed correctly?

knore Grand Master

knore

Posted
Posted
Hi SydneyKid, You seem to know alot when it comes to these things i pressume.

I was told about adjusting the idle but the car idles fine, bout 800rpm. But when i free rev it, its drops down low enough to stall. Same goes with driving.  

A few q's.

If it was the airflow meter, would it be idleing rough? But it aiint, so it couldnt be?

I dont have a hi`flow cat. problem?

and one last thing, i noticed there's a hose bout 1" in diameter coming from the top of the engine bay that is not connect'd to anything, just sitting there unblocked. no idea where it goes or where it came from. Attached is a pic of wat hose im talkin bout.

Thanx for your time

I bet thats your problem, when putting my catch can on, if these arent connected the engine hunts for idle all over the place, mine didnt stall, but it did make the idle go nuts.

btw- im changing my turbo soon on an auto aswell, i just got safc2 and sitc ages back, will do what i need nicely and lots cheaper.

E_Lu-SHuN Mentor

E_Lu-SHuN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for ur help guys, but i fink its the afm. i ran a diagnostic checkup and it read out a problem with the MASS AIR FOLW SENSOR.

im gonna try out my friends afm and hopefully it will solve my problems.,..

cheers.

ill get back later and tell u guys the result

E_Lu-SHuN Mentor

E_Lu-SHuN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

my friend works at a nissan dealer shop and yeh he had the diagnostic remote computer. pretty funky item knowing that it costs more then wot my car is worth.

my afm sticker is pink. so does that mean i have to use a s2 r33 afm? or will a s1 green sticker still work?

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