Jump to content
SAU Community

Mesh Grille for an FMIC?

T0nyGTSt

By T0nyGTSt,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

akeenan Grand Master

akeenan

Posted
Posted
In want to install a stainless or alloy mesh grille for my FMIC to prevent stone damage.

would this really be worth it? ive been thinking about this question for a while my thinking may be way out and I am probably wrong but would you really need some type of mesh to protect your FMIC wouldnt the positioning of the wheels basically not allow stones to enter through the front?

T0nyGTSt Grand Master

T0nyGTSt

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by akeenan

 

would this really be worth it? ive been thinking about this question for a while my thinking may be way out and I am probably wrong but would you really need some type of mesh to protect your FMIC wouldnt the positioning of the wheels basically not allow stones to enter through the front?

Well there are a lot of cars with stone chips on the front.

I also see a lot of coolers with bent fins etc. so I just want to prevent that... purely cosmetic.

T.

sidewaymambo Mentor

sidewaymambo

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by skyzerr33

you know that the mesh will reduce airflow over the incooler by about 20%.

just go to any bodykit shop they should be able to do it for u.

20%...maybe, but it really depands what sort of mesh you get; get the mesh with 15x10 (mm) at least..

BTW, EVO6/7 have mesh in front of their cooler out of factory ..and it's 15x10

nizmokid Mentor

nizmokid

Posted
Posted

I have mesh in the front of my car and it has saved the intercooler heaps od times from stone and rock flicking up on to the car. it will save you in the long run! you can do this you self for about $100. I got my mesh from a window frame and glass shop! :)

NIZ30 Community Regular

NIZ30

Posted
Posted

I agree with nizmokid. Buy it from a non car related indutry and put it on yourself. i bought my mesh from a plumber for $5. Ask for offcuts that are just lying around in the way. Cost me more in metal primmer, black paint and sikaflex to stick it on.

I got mesh with real big holes so as not to disturb airflow. But if you get the regular mesh with smalls holes, I have seen this reduce perfomance before. Cause the holes in my mesh is so big they wouldn't protect well (better than nother). But I feel the front bar is a bit more finished off.

Attached is pic of my front bar.

Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted

I'll be putting mesh infront of the FMIC when I put it on. Stuff the stones, I'd rather loose a bit of cooling effect than damage the intercooler.

The problem with painting the mesh black (or any dark colour) is that the stone chips to the mesh really stand out.

I'm going to try and see what powder coating the mesh black will be like. See if it's a little bit more resistant to stone chips than just paint.

I've got a mate that can do powder coating for about $30 or so.

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • itsforandres
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By itsforandres · Posted

      hello! does anyone have a schematic that shows how to test the blower motor resistor for the vac system? i believe the part# is 27761-15U00. I think the resistor is toast, but would like to be able to test it somehow before i embark on the journey to find a new one. cheers! 27761-15U00
    • soviet_merlin
      R33 general questions

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      I don't know the answer to this, but did you have a look at the parts diagrams on amayama.com and see what they list around it for your car? As an example this should be it on my car. That's how I would check for required clips and things like that. But, I take no responsibility for you ending up with a box full of random OEM hoses, washers and clips after going down that path a few times. This definitely has never happened to me  
    • GTSBoy
      Did tie rods. Steering now not "springing" back.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Most driving should* be done on one side of single lane divided roads. In the RHD world, you drive on the left side of the dividing line and the road is probably cambered equally on both sides. So your side of the road slopes away to the left. The same is true for the LHD world, just everything swapped to the other side and opposite slope. With a perfectly neutral, straight ahead wheel alignment designed to drive straight on a perfectly flat surface (or at least one that is level on the left-right axis, even if it has some slope in the fore-aft axis) you will not be able to drive on a cambered road without the car wanting to drift down the camber. You will need to add steering input in the opposite direction all the time. This is annoying. The solution has always been to set the camber and/or the caster to produce a continuous turning force in the opposite direction of the camber. The car will drive straight on the kind of camber for which it was set up, presumably as described in the top paragraph. But.... when the car is set up this way, as soon as you get into a lane, usually on a multi-lane surface road or highway, where the camber is not as presumed during setup, the car will usually pull to one side. In the RHD world, if you are in the fast lane on a big divided road, you are probably on the opposite camber compared to what the car was set up for (ie, sloping down to the right) and the combination of the setup and that camber will make the car want to go right pretty hard. Even a perfectly flat lane will tend to want to go right. There's no getting around it. Civil engineers who know their stuff (which is not an assumption that can always be made) will attempt to keep the variation in camber across a multi-lane road as small as possible, and if they can will attempt to make the fast lane as close to flat, or even cambered in the same direction as all the other lanes. This takes a lot of planning for drainage, control of levels, ability to deal with the elevation changes that occur at road junctions, etc etc. So it's not trivial to get it right. When they do make it work, then the annoyance is reduced, along with tyre wear, fuel consumption, etc. In theory, the civil engineers are supposed to worry about those aspects of road design also. * This used to be true, but now with very large highway systems, even just multi-lane surface roads running everywhere, it is less true now than it was, but the old assumption is the basis for describing the phenomenon, so let's just run with it for the moment.
    • soviet_merlin
      Did tie rods. Steering now not "springing" back.

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      I think the consensus was that's normal. Sloped road surfaces or something? I remember @silviaz went through this before. It might be one of those things you never notice until you pay attention to it.
    • Kaptain
      R33 general questions

      By Kaptain · Posted

      Im not entirely sure exactly what or where its leaking from, he started to pull the boots to swap to my new tie rods + ends and it just vomited fluid, so he closed em up up, swapped the rod ends to the old rods and let me know so I can figure a solution out, im guessing its all origional as as I passed 103k miles earlier this year im sure its just in need of a full overhual/rebuild anyways.    If i could just yank it off and be good it wouldn't be an issue to ship it out and wait for the turnaround but the guy I work with doesnt really have space to keep my car for a week or two at a time, would rather drop it off and have a replacement ready to drop in
×
×
  • Create New...