Jump to content
SAU Community

RB30DE bottom end

doxximus

By doxximus,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

meggala Grand Master

meggala

Posted
Posted

ok I spoke to a guy in qld how has done this N/a like you want

couple of issues

you use the the rb25 de pistons as they fit and you get 10.5 to 1 compression nice and you need you set up an oil line for the vvt to work when you get closer I'll mail him

read this and you could pm him

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t41006.html

he reckons its very nice and smooth good luck with it I think it will rock you might get a surprise and find some real power.

meggala

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/500-rb30de-bottom-end/#findComment-12834
Share on other sites
vjsam Apprentice

vjsam

Posted
Posted

meggala - i was under the impression us rb25de boys wont need the oil feed as we already have it?? or is it that the rb30 block does not have the line where as the rb25 block does? i gotta pm rb30-zed and ask him more...engine management looks tricky too. he's using a delco ecu (from holdens, etc...) don't know how this would affect abs/4wd/auto ect...

sounds interesting.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/500-rb30de-bottom-end/#findComment-12839
Share on other sites
vjsam Apprentice

vjsam

Posted
Posted

i emailed steve the guy with the rb30de - and the conversion is apparently "quite simple" :(

Hi there Virantha,

I live up in Wollongong NSW, let me know if you are passing one day.

the converion would be simple on your car, but things to keep in mind are :

* the RB30 block is about 40mm taller than your block so you will have to

look at clearance between th throttle body and the bonnet.

* your RB25 block has a internal oil supply to the VVT and the 30 has not,

so you will have to run a external oil line to the passage way in the head

and seel off the lower part of the passage way to stop oil getting back to

the water passage, have a look at the photos of the head at

http:/au.photos.yahoo.com/arkij60

Also are you sure that your compression ratio is 10.5:1 as my RB30 block

with RB25 pistons and head give me 10.5:1, if you are 10.5:1 now and do this

converion with your old pistons it would be about 12:1

I think your motor would be 9:1 now. But ever wat another 500cc makes a big

difference.

The reason i used the Delco system is that it was running my older L28

engine and is a very good system.

What do you think of the RB25 engine?

Steven

[/quote:183cd5627e]

hmmmm - gotta check the clearance for the extra 4cm...

i was under the impression that if you do change the bottom end of an engine - you don't change the compression?? ie it would remain at 10.5?

i don't see why the turbo boys can't do this too! - rb30det :D

this mod would ROCK - and keep the insurers happy...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/500-rb30de-bottom-end/#findComment-12841
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...