Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 250
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guys

I got the news mine was bumped and missed the November Ship.

I decided to bump mine to the January, December is a shocking month to have an import come in. Warfys are on go slows and compliance workshops are half closed.

I got caught last time I had a car import two years ago.

The import duties are dropping next year so I should save myself a few hundred bucks.

Cheers

Sorry to hear dood

So lets see delivbery into Perth early December. Allow a week to clear customs and steam clean it. Now thats mid December

Deliver to w/shop and let it sit in there for three to four weeks allowing for holidays over Chrismas and newyear.

Rego.

My guess is Early to mid Jan before you see it on the road.

PS Make sure the work shops are ready to work on your car

Cheers :wassup:

I varys who is getting the car on the boat for you and where it leaves from as I had a Supra bought up in Tokyo last week and it left on the boat a couple of days ago, he is Japanese and we had to pre pay the freight.

I have cars leaving down in Kyushu and could only get one on the boat out of three and the one that got priority we paid for it 2 months ago.

K Line over booked new cars and we were going to get nothing on the boat until a few people called K line in Fremantle so they called Japan and pushed to get some cars on.

Imported second hand cars are a low priority, some of the big time guys who do 50 to 100 cars a month cant even get space.

Well good news for me I guess is that I just found out that my car is currently on a Kiwicar ship over here.. :) Its been a wait of about 2 months since it was eligible to when it was shipped, but should be here in about 2-3 weeks I guess. On road 2-3 weeks after that hopefully.

I like the little dot on the map they have to show where the ship is exactly :)

the r33? sold that about 4 months ago...the suspension setup was never really that great and a few others things on it needed changing, and was getting bored with it anyhow. Want a cheaper chasis to setup everything exactly how I want it - fresh start!

Hey guys just thought id let you know i sent my import approval off over 2 weeks prior to november, month my GTR was built (as instructed by geoff) and i just got the approval in the mail today. I was pretty relieved :rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...