Jump to content
SAU Community

Removing Rear Interior

riceline
 Share

Recommended Posts

riceline Community Regular

riceline

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

I’m about to send the car in to get some damage fixed up. The smash repair guys said that it would be cheaper for me if I remove the interior myself (Passenger door and rear passenger side interior).

Getting the door trim off – No problems

Pulling out the rear seats – No problems

Removing the rear interior… NO IDEA???!!!!

Any help would be great guys.

The car goes in on Tuesday so I have to pull it out on Monday evening after work.

Thanks for your help guys

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MANWHOR3 Proficient

MANWHOR3

Posted
Posted

rear interior means rear side pieces (i'm half stoned and pissed so can't remember), Just undo the screws behind the seatbelt. Pop that little seatbelt square thingy. Then, the plastic side piece is just clipped on. Just pull it. But be careful not to break clips. No biggy if you do, i always break at least 2 or 3.

Do for both sides.

Next would be the parcel shelf?? it's just hooked in on both sides, just push the sides down, then pull it out.

That's it for interior. Tthe part i was describing above was just like imagine if you sit in the back seat, and that big plastic piece next to you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Turbomachinery engineers. They're just mechanical engineers who generally studied in universities focused on oil and gas, aviation or that had a formula SAE competition team. We have an entire team of them in our engineering department... they geek out over data and performance testing. I worked with them a lot when we developed an anti surge system for centrifugal compressors ran by electrical motors (~20 000-50 000HP) to avoid surging on accidental power loss.  They laugh when I mention automotive turbochargers.... it seems they're lightyear's behind in technology due to poor funding. If you think formula 1 spends a lot of money, a single turbine/centrifugal compressor package in my line of work including the balance of plant equipment generally ranges in the 150-250Million range depending on size.   
    • colin.ssc
      Modding V37

      By colin.ssc · Posted

      The diff brace did not increase NVR at all. And yea the whole reason I thought getting the rear diff brace was a no brainer was because of the reduction in wearing the bushings out + wheel hop. It's a cheap mod for a big cost mitigation in the long run. I bought it for $99 USD + shipping. In regards to the sway bar - i had some over/understeer going on but i just checked my tires and they are pretty worn out. I wont be changing them til july since i'm away for work for a month or so. will sort it when i get back and do more testing. But its definitely still a big thumbs up from me given how planted the car feels now and me being able to go around corners quicker. Still puzzling to me why they never put a LSD into these cars....even the 400z. I saw this mob selling LSD kits for a decent price though it's a little more involved on your part to get it installed: https://www.tractionconcepts.com/Infiniti-Q60-R190-Limited-Slip-LSD-Rear-Conversion-p/tcxin9240.htm  
    • GTSBoy
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Great for thrashing on the track - particularly if it is all corners. Otherwise, it is a recipe for massive tyre wear and reduced straight line traction. -1 is plenty for a streeter.
    • GTSBoy
      Link G4X GTTLink questions, MAP Boost Solenoid

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There are other MAP tapping ports. There's one that runs to the boost gauge MAP sensor on the firewall (over in the corner behind the brake booster). Start at that sensor and follow the hose to the plenum.
    • PranK
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By PranK · Posted

      Japanese circuits have always looked tight to me on Youtube vids. They seem to be able to fit tracks into the smallest of spots. I've never experimented with camber in the rear. I'm running similar front camber to you (albeit in the E90) but I've been looking into what options I have in the rear. -3 rear seems like a lot. Yeah, mine is the N54. I had an N52 330i for about 7 years, it was awesome but I just needed a little more poke. The N54 is also DI. I'm running BC coilovers with the M3 front arms and a Whiteline front sway bar and the turn in and ride quality is brilliant. But I do still suffer from a bit of roll so I've been looking into that lately. 
×
×
  • Create New...