Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well you guys are always whoring on my threads. :cheers: :jk:

KURSED: are u using this car as a drifter or as a 1/4 mile car?

Because if your expecting good times on this Tank of a car. be very shocked. :rant: .. at 1450kgs its not going to go anywhere very quick.

But i have been known to go around corners sidewayz very quick oH say at 80km/h. LOL

The mods depends on what u want to do with the car.

For drift: get a bleed valave and an oil cooler and fmic. Then bobs your uncle dirft machine setup. Oh and also u need coilovers and diff.

1/4. I guess same setup as any of the other threads will have one for a rb20.

See most guys from what i have known buy the ceffy more for a drift car than anything else. I know i did. Otherwise i would have got a rotor an done a 12 sec pass standard.

I have absolutely no idea why that skyline stuff started appearing mid thread--- very odd.

to clarify, the cef will be used for neither drifting or strip, it is purely a daily driver.

I want a bit more power out of it - mind you i was stoked with the power and acceleration when i got the car a few weeks back, then i got used to it and now I want more. I'm sure most of you know exactly how this feels.

ok so I am off to find a

- boost gauge

- bleed valve

- air pod

and I will be having a chat with someone about the remapping of the ECU once this is done....

I ran 14.5 psi in my RB20DET and it promptly shat itself, so don't run more than 12 or it will cost at least 350 for the turbo and 700 to have your head pulled off and checked!

Very expensive lesson. Get another turbo if you want to run more boost.

I have absolutely no idea why that skyline stuff started appearing mid thread--- very odd.

to clarify, the cef will be used for neither drifting or strip, it is purely a daily driver.  

I want a bit more power out of it - mind you i was stoked with the power and acceleration when i got the car a few weeks back, then i got used to it and now I want more. I'm sure most of you know exactly how this feels.

ok so I am off to find a  

- boost gauge

- bleed valve

- air pod

and I will be having a chat with someone about the remapping of the ECU once this is done....

And get some agg pipe going to the pod. It will allow it to suck in clean fresh COLD air. I did it on my and on a cold nite, bloody hell did I notice the difference.

13psi is fine... no more.... just make sure its tuned on a dyno so u know its DEFINATELY 13psi its running.

CAI box is always a good idea too and can be done quite cheaply using that clarke rubber heat resistant foam stuff.... doesnt look as pretty as those nice carbon boxes but does just as good a job.... dont need a top cause it creates a seal against the underside of ur bonnet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...